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Normal for a Carter/Facet pump to be hot

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T

tdskip

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I know you like running these, and I am using one exactly like this;

carotor.jpg


I was running it directly off the battery while using it to draw fuel up from a gas can while trying to the MGC to run. It was connected like that for about 30 minutes.

When I went to take everything apart I grabbed the main body with my hand and it was really hot. As in almost dropped it as it as about to burn my hand hot.
 
Sorry, Tom, I've never used a pump like that.

However, looking at the shape, I would <span style="font-weight: bold">guess </span>that it is a motor-driven pump intended for high performance and/or fuel injection applications, that relies on constant fuel movement to keep the motor cool. It should probably have a bypass line back to the tank (or in your case, can) so that fuel can move even with the engine not running.

Both Carter and Facet are brand names, they both make several different kinds of pumps. The 'Facet' pump that I recommend looks like this:
41ZRkN7BMCL._SS500_.jpg
 
If you decide to go with the facet pump
try to use the rubber mounting dampers.
These guys don't enjoy much vibration.
Carry a spare !
Harry
 
You are showing a picture of the Carter pump. It is extremely important with the Carter pump that you do NOT let the fuel run out or let the filter get plugged. The pump is cooled by the flowing gasoline. If the gas stops flowing for any reason the pump WILL get hot and the innards of the pump will melt together. I like the Carter pump and "had" one on the GT6 until I melted it due to a plugged intake filter.

I have never felt a square body Facet pump to see if they get hot.
 
Hi Randall

Can you provide any details on how and where you mounted this pump and how you connected it from the fuel tank to the steel fuel line that runs along the frame rail? Also, where you mounted any fuel filters? And a fuel shut off valve, if one was used? I'm considering this modification and haven't seen one installed yet. Also, I don't have the stock fuel shut off valve in the engine compartment. It was missing from my rust bucket when I bought it. My TR3A body is off the frame so I have the luxury of plumbing and wiring this any way I want.

Thanks

Pat
 
dklawson said:
I have never felt a square body Facet pump to see if they get hot.
Click to expand...
They get a little warm, but not what I would call hot.
 
Pat, my TRs have all had the stock mechanical pump, as I'm rather fond of the priming lever and sediment bowl. I only carry the Facet as a spare, and for transferring fuel & whatnot.

One of the Stags is wearing a Facet pump as a replacement for it's original SU electric, and it is mounted in the stock location (trunk above gas tank) with the stock filter location (engine compartment, left inner wing) and some extra rubber in the mount (to help keep the noise down).

I also put one on the motorhome gen set, when it's AC electric failed, mounted approx 2' above the fuel tank with a filter next to the inlet. (There is a commonly available filter with 5/16" hose barb on one side and 1/8" NPT on the other, that screws into the inlet of the Facet. Any parts store should have them, but I don't recall the application offhand.)

My Dad's TR3A had a similar pump, that was simply mounted to the inner wing near (slightly above) the stock pump location with no filters as I recall. Seemed to work fine in that location. Just soft lines to connect to the original hard lines (again as I recall, it's been over 30 years since I turned a wrench on that car).

Unless originality is important, I wouldn't bother looking for an original shutoff tap. They're kind of finicky and prone to leak if you use the original cork seal. A modern 1/4 turn ball valve would likely work much better (and cheaper) and probably be light enough to just support with fuel line instead of being clamped to the frame. But I would install a shutoff, in case you need to work on the pump or pull the engine, with a full tank of gas.
 
Thanks for the quick response and the great info Randall!

Sounds like the electric fuel pump may not really be an "Upgrade" to the stock fuel pump (which I have), if the stock pump is pretty reliable. I'll consider sticking with the stock pump and add a small ball valve on the line for shut off.
 
(this wasn't actually for a TR - I like those mechanical pumps just fine. I was actually asking related to the MGC. which is running now BTW.....)
 
Sorry guys - forgot to say THANK YOU for the info. Ordered the Facet pump that was recommend, Carter pump is going back.
 
That Carter type pump looks like it may have been a submerged hi pressure fuel injection pump. It sits in the tank and the surrounding fuel cools it as well as the flow.

The high pressure submersible pumps get HOT when run for exteneded periods outside a tank.

Very LOW fuel pressure is needed for carbs, otherwise the float needles will blow out and overflow the carbs.

If you get the facet, stick with the low pressure pump and place it near the tank. they push better than they pull.
 
Hi there - that pump actually has exposed wiring leads so it's an external mount, but no doubt now that it requires continuous flow. it is a low presure pump, and didn't flood the carbs, but it isn't a good choice for non-injected LBCs as it turns out.

Thanks!
 
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