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non-running diagnosis

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C

Crisis

Jedi Hopeful
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Still having trouble with the tr6. After it gets hot it just shuts off-even at highway speed. Don't trust it to drive it. Got spark. Got fuel. One thing I do notice is that the carbs get very hot. Is this normal? Placed over the exhaust as it is, I assume its ok, but how hot? What would cause it to get so hot? Thank you.

Reid
 
Are you running a header or stock exhaust manifold? Pull #1 and #6 spark plugs. What do they look like? ie. corroded? white? black? What condition are your rubber fuel lines in? Could they be swelling shut?
 
Do you know for sure it has spark when it shuts off? I've learned that a bad coil can be evidential heat related.

Are your fuel evaporation lines connected and working properly?

I recently went through this and it was a combination of fuel filter and bad coil.
 
Does it struggle for a while before shutting down, or does it go dead quickly? If it dies quickly, I'd suspect its spark related and look to the coil - I had that exact problem before, and when the coil cools down everything goes back to normal.

Randy
 
Reid:

FWIW, I had a similar problem on my '74 TR6 ... would run fine for a while and then start to run crappy and die. I thought it was a fuel problem, rebuilt the carbs and fuel pump without fixing the problem. It ended up being the coil ... replaced the original with a Lucas sport coil and no more problems.

Good Luck

Matt
 
Thanks to everyone for their help. I'm going to try tackling the problem again today. Have already; replaced the coil,checked the fuel filter, and checked the spark at the plugs. However, most of this was done at a time when I was able to start the car, so I need to have my tools around at the time that it quits. When it quits it's pretty sudden-not much sputtering. Can anyone tell me, if I have a bad connection at an evaporation hose could this be the result? Thank you.
 
I don't know anything about the Lumenition system. My guess is the problem is electrical. Fuel starvation is usually a slightly more gradual death. A faulty electrical connection or component may behave more like an on off switch.
Make sure all your grounding wires are securely fastened and clean.
Have you adjusted the carbs? Do you get any popping or backfiring through the carbs? A lean condition will cause popping through the carb, which will heat the carb body.
Check for spark when it dies. Try wiggling the key when the engine is fully warm. Maybe it's a faulty ignition switch.
Keep in mind that resistance increases with heat. A connection or electrical component that is borderline when the car is cool may fail intermittently when it gets hot.
 
I don't know anything about the Lumenition system.
My guess is the problem is electrical. Fuel starvation is usually a slightly more gradual death. A faulty electrical connection or component can behave more like an on off switch. Keep in mind that resistance increases with heat. A connection or electrical component that is borderline when the car is cool may fail intermittently when it gets hot. The resistance gets too high for it to function. After it cools down it's OK.
Make sure all your grounding wires are securely fastened and clean.
Try wiggling the key when the engine is fully warm. Maybe it's a faulty ignition switch.
Check for spark when it dies.
Have you adjusted the carbs? Do you get any popping or backfiring through the carbs? A lean condition will cause popping through the carb, which will heat the carb body.
 
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