no spark

[eyera3]

hello all,
I last drove my 1960 3000 MKI two weeks ago, I had to turn the car around so I pulled out of my garage and drove it back in front first. Last week I started it to check out some improvements to my custom throttle cable. This weekend was the big day to take the car on a test drive and then nothing.... No spark to the plugs, across the points or out of the coil. I bought a new coil, nothing. I have continuity from the white with black stripe wire to the pos termonal of the battery at the cut off switch. I have 12v at the pos coil terminal. New Lucas points and condensor, new cap and rotor, all NOS.
Any way to test the condensor? I have one NOS condensor left, so I could just repkace it and see, but would like to know how to test it?
Thanks
Ira
1960 AH 3000 MKI

 

[Keith_M]

Check the battery cutoff switch (or the wire leading to it) in the trunk.

 

[Keoke]

but would like to know how to test it?

There are two methods:
1: Using an OHM Meter set to a high OHMs scale connect it between the case and the lead the meter should jump and then fall to Zero . Reverse the leads and it should repeat the stated action..

2: Connect the condenser across a 12volt source, then short the lead to the case it will generate a spark.

Generally if these conditions are met it is OK. Excessive operating heat can cause it to fail however.

 

[Healey Nut]

You have a bad battery switch , disconnect the small white wire with black stripe from the switch or the side of the dizzy and try again .

 

[glemon]

When I am stumped and the intuitive fixes that come into my head don't work (basically when all else fails and I am totally stumped) I go here:

https://herald-tips-tricks.wdfiles....art0/Lucas Fault Diagnosis Service Manual.pdf Electrical stuff explained in a pretty simple way so even I can usually understand it, and good step by step diagnostics.

(Edit) BTW--my money is on the battery cut off switch too, mine would kill my car like that with no warning, sometimes when out and about, disabling and bypassing it made my Healey ownership happier.

 

[DerekJ]

Check the small wire in the distributor which is very fine. It can separate inside its covering without it showing on the outside.

 

[rjc157]

I would check the fuse see if the connections are clean

 

[pkmh]

I had a similar problem where I had little spark, no spark and then a lot of spark. Yes, I too, replaced the condenser, points, rotor ignition coil wire, disconnect (and yes that setscrew is a bad design--it will severe your black and white wire every time you "lightly" over tighten it), clipped all other end wires to the distributor and then checked the carbs for fuel flow.

Hopefully, you can still inspect your old ignition wire (using the radio reduction type) going to the distributor cap. Mine was burnt. What I did next was inspect the distributor cap's center node, that carbon spring piece. Pulled it out more so more contact was made onto the rotor. Bingo! Strong and continuous spark, car started right up. Now waiting for a new cap to come. Evidence of that problem was seeing how burnt the wire was going that carbon spring piece. Hopefully, this will fix your issue if your still have one, notwithstanding other issues.

Paul

PS. One other possibility that also happened to me was one of the ignition coil leads was severed, not visible from view. So you may want to check all your electrical connections. Hope all works out.