Get out your DMM or test light. (If you don't have either, buy both of them. They are required tools for LBC ownership and you can get both at HF for under $10 for the pair.)
Connect one side to a convenient ground, set the DMM to cover 12v (eg 20v DC range). Turn the key on. Now check for power at the hot terminal of the coil (two wires I think, pink/white and white/yellow).
If you don't find at least 6 volts (enough to make the test lamp glow), there is a problem between there and the ignition switch, very possibly the ballast resistor inside the wiring harness has failed.
If you do find power there, take off the distributor cap and turn the engine until you can see that the points are open. One easy way is to shift to 4th gear and roll the car backwards a bit. Now check for power on the other low tension terminal on the coil. If no juice, try pulling off the wire that runs to the dizzy. If you see power on the coil now, then the points are shorted as Mickey suggests.
By far the most common problem IMO is installing the points wrong; the wire goes UNDER the plastic insulator "top hat", not on top of it.