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no spark #2 cylinder - help!
- Thread starter tr3&tr6
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Gary Lloyd
Jedi Knight
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Weird!! But you are sure that it isn't getting spark, right?? It isn't a mixed up firing order and it is the same cylinder, right?
Dave Thielke
Senior Member
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Try a real close look at the electronic breaker in the distributor. If it's an optical chopper, there might be something in the one slot, if it's a magnetic pickup, see if it's bad on one segment.
I assume you've tried the plugs and or wires in different locations and the cap has no crack or short. Just about everything else is common to all the cylinders.
Hmmm, it's a puzzelment.
A further note after rereading your last, were you checking for spark from the wire to the plug, or to the head or some other grounded object?
Dave T
[ 05-14-2003: Message edited by: Dave Thielke ]</p>
I assume you've tried the plugs and or wires in different locations and the cap has no crack or short. Just about everything else is common to all the cylinders.
Hmmm, it's a puzzelment.
A further note after rereading your last, were you checking for spark from the wire to the plug, or to the head or some other grounded object?
Dave T
[ 05-14-2003: Message edited by: Dave Thielke ]</p>
Dave Thielke
Senior Member
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Try the wire again to see if you get spark to ground on each wire, if so, then the problem would be in the plug, or in the head. Has something hit the electrode and closed it up, or flooded it?
Dave T
Dave T
Dave Thielke
Senior Member
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Hmmmmm
Perhaps it's that weird weather you have going around in circles back there.
See if you take the cap off the dist. and rotate the engine. You ought to get a spark from the coil wire to ground as each lobe of the cam, magnetic rod or slot in the optical disk passes the pickup (depending on the ign. system you have). If you get a spark at all four times, then the problem must be in the cap, rotor or wire. If not, the only spot not common to all the cyls. would be in the pickup to timing rotor or cam.
I know my terminology may be incorrect, it's a long time since handling MGBs, but it,s basicly the same as my 75 Spitfire.
I had several hidden problems and finally replaced the Lucas system with a unit similar to the Crane unit that I got at a swap meet for 20 bucks. Simple conversion and it's run fine ever since.
Hope you get it running soon, as it's a lot more fun on the road than in the garage.
My daughter's boyfriend is back in your area for a few weeks and says it's been pretty wild.
Good luck.
Dave T
Perhaps it's that weird weather you have going around in circles back there.
See if you take the cap off the dist. and rotate the engine. You ought to get a spark from the coil wire to ground as each lobe of the cam, magnetic rod or slot in the optical disk passes the pickup (depending on the ign. system you have). If you get a spark at all four times, then the problem must be in the cap, rotor or wire. If not, the only spot not common to all the cyls. would be in the pickup to timing rotor or cam.
I know my terminology may be incorrect, it's a long time since handling MGBs, but it,s basicly the same as my 75 Spitfire.
I had several hidden problems and finally replaced the Lucas system with a unit similar to the Crane unit that I got at a swap meet for 20 bucks. Simple conversion and it's run fine ever since.
Hope you get it running soon, as it's a lot more fun on the road than in the garage.
My daughter's boyfriend is back in your area for a few weeks and says it's been pretty wild.
Good luck.
Dave T
John S Farrington
Jedi Warrior
Offline
I have reviewed your comments and responses. About the only source of this problem (as suggested By Thielke) is a problem in your solid state trigger. If it is a true 80 model, you have a CEI with an external amplifier. If it is an Opus, it has a box on the side of the distributor. The CEI would foul up if the magnetic pip on the distributor rotor sensor at number two position is broken or fouled. The air gap spec between the pip and the pick up sensor might be out of spec also. I think the spec is about .008" gap Also check for movement in the distributor shaft due to bearing wear. On the other hand if you have an Opus ignition system with a built in amp, throw it away and start over again. Get a point type distributor and convert it to a Pektronic. I hope this helps. Jack Farrington