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My 63 BJ7 engine was rebuilt by a professional about 15yrs ago and the car was put into storage. I am taking it out now to once again work on it. I read through the forum for advice on initial startup. I drained and replaced antifreeze. Made sure fuel system was clean. Checked the oil. I took out the plugs and tried to build a little oil pressure. Nothing. So I disconnected the pressure gauge to make sure the line wasn't plugged. I took the fitting off the engine and cleaned that as well because it looked a little plugged. My question is if the engine was full of oil and I remove that adapter shouldn't oil come out? Any thoughts?
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No oil pressure
- Thread starter PeterB
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red57
Jedi Knight
Online
That fitting is much higher than the oil level in the pan so no oil will come out unless the engine is running (or at least cranking on the starter to make the oil pump turn). When cranking, you should eventually get oil pumping and then oil should come out of where the fitting was. But, in an engine that has been sitting along time, the oil pump takes quite a while to fill all the oil passages and develope pressure. You seem to be on the right track, I would keep trying to get pressure before starting, may take 5 min or more of cranking on the starter to get oil flowing (then re-connect the gage line). I would not try to start it until I had oil coming out of the gallery where the gage line connects. Watch that the starter doesn't get too hot & give it some time to cool if it does get too hot.
Let us know how it goes.
Let us know how it goes.
andrea
Jedi Knight
Offline
Here you can find a extensive guide to Pre Lubrification
at first start engine
https://www.ntahc.org/techtips/PreLube1.html
Cheers
Andrea
at first start engine
https://www.ntahc.org/techtips/PreLube1.html
Cheers
Andrea
red57,
Just wanted to say thanks and let you know it worked! I was just a little nervous before about not cranking it too long. Another 20 seconds and it worked just like you said. The big test will be this weekend, I'm going to try to finally fire it with gas. I hope that works as well as this did!
Thanks,
Pete
Just wanted to say thanks and let you know it worked! I was just a little nervous before about not cranking it too long. Another 20 seconds and it worked just like you said. The big test will be this weekend, I'm going to try to finally fire it with gas. I hope that works as well as this did!
Thanks,
Pete
red57
Jedi Knight
Online
Peter, That's great to hear.
One other thought - if the engine wasn't started 15 years ago when it was rebuilt then you should follow camshaft/lifter break-in procedures. The cam break-in recommendation varies some but generally, you want to start it (and confirm good oil pressure) then set it at a fast idle around 1800-2000rpm for 15-20 minutes (I do 2000 rpm for 20 min) - do not let it idle at your normal idle speed. This is important with a new/reground cam & lifters to avoid scoring/damaging the lifter face/cam lobe. After about 20 min. re-set idle & you should be ready to roll.
Dave
One other thought - if the engine wasn't started 15 years ago when it was rebuilt then you should follow camshaft/lifter break-in procedures. The cam break-in recommendation varies some but generally, you want to start it (and confirm good oil pressure) then set it at a fast idle around 1800-2000rpm for 15-20 minutes (I do 2000 rpm for 20 min) - do not let it idle at your normal idle speed. This is important with a new/reground cam & lifters to avoid scoring/damaging the lifter face/cam lobe. After about 20 min. re-set idle & you should be ready to roll.
Dave
Offline
On first starting engines I assemble or which have been drained of oil for some time I disconnect the oil pressure flex line and push oil into the engine via an old-fashioned oil squirt gun.