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New Wheels They Came, They Came!!!!

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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

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Bugsy got a new set of wheels today from the UK. I can't believe the condition of the box that they came in. Box we banded together with really crappy sealing tape and wrapped with some external cardboard. By the time it arrived the bottom box was totally toast. However everything looks great. I did find one tiny nick on one of the rims but I'm not going to argue about it. These look pretty darn nice, with full set of lugs and center caps. Now to find some silver AH Logos to go on the center Caps. Here is what arrived. And yes that is a rim sticking out of the top of the box. Wheels are by JBW(John Brown Wheels) and not I did not buy direct from these Factory in the UK but from a vendor called Waterford Classics. Wheels are 5 x 13 x 101.6mm. I think that is correct with 20 offset. At the Factory Website there were 5.5 and 6" sizes available.

I will need to grind the top of the Tie Rod End Stud as it hits and touch up the edge of the Tie Rod Nut with the grinder. Other than that all is good. They are pretty:fat:. Different from VTO's as they have a polished ring around the edge rather than a wide flat polished edge. Weight not too bad. I'm chuffed. Now to find some rubber to go with the wheels.

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Your lucky, Jim. UK shippers idea of cardboard and packing materials is sorely lacking. As you've discovered, their "cardboard" is barely more substantial than toilet paper, and probably made from what's skimmed off their water treatment plants.

A couple years ago I ordered a new set of stock steel wheels for that Morris Minor I was restoring. They came taped together, just like yours. However, they must have taken a dump off the truck or a loading ramp because one had a dent that was the equivalent damage to running into a curb at 25 MPH. A second box that contained $2500 worth of parts never even arrived. FedEx would not take any responsibility stating "inadequate packaging". The box of parts never did turn up; lost, not once, but twice inside the Memphis FedEx hub. They wouldn't take responsibility for that either. I have often had parcels arrive with their seams split open. So, consider yourself fortunate that they arrived in good condition.

The close fit on the tie rod is a pretty common issue, but at least an easy fix.

They are nice looking wheels. Congrats!
 
Jim, you can shim the steering arms to give your self the wheel clearance you need. A cast alloy wheel is always thicker, interference issues should be expected.

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Aren't you replacing widened steel wheels?
 
View attachment 47325I have those Corvair Rims with Sprite Centers. I haven't decided what to do with those yet. his car was definitely AutoCrossed and these wheels definitely allowed the PO to put bigger rubber patch on the track. A Parts car I had used a set of Corvair Rims mounted backwards to move the front wheels out even further apart.
 
Huh, learned something new, didn't know Corvair wheels would fit
 
Check your toe-in. I'd bought rims (same style; possibly identical) some years ago and bought tyres and when I installed them, there was lots of clearance on one side and the tyre rubbed on t'other. Filled with dismay/distress/disappointment (?), I set them aside assuming I had a bent frame and went back to the original skinnier rims.
The Yellow Sprite's been off the road for a few years and finally got it back on this year and took it to a frame shop, and the frame was just fine. But when they took it to the alignment shop....
And the toe-in was the problem all along, so now I've got a set of 4 shiny new rims with 4 shiny tyres that are more than seven years old, all because I'm dumber than I thought. But my toe-in is now correct. Later, Doug
 
I will once I get both sides put together. New Tie Rod Ends are slightly longer than the OEM TRE. Since I don't have tires for the new rims yet I'll put the OEM Bugeye Rims with 155/80/13 Tires back on the car and check alignment. Old TRE's measured 8-9 threads showing and I reassembled with 8-9 Threads showing but I know the new TRE's are deeper and threaded end is a scooch longer. Will see once I get things finally put back together and aligned.
 
View attachment 47390View attachment 47391Finished LF other than installing new pads. A tip with helper bolts when installing springs. A couple of deep sockets make for some nice spacers on a 6' x 5/16" bolt so you don't need to tighten the helper bolt so far. This side looks looks pretty nicely detailed. Sway bar with new bushings to be installed as well, and that's a new set of Peter C's best on both sides, new Wheel bearings, rubber bushings for now. Wishbones were rebuilt by Apple Hydraulics before the price of Wishbones dropped dramatically. I'll touch up paint nicks and scratches before I finish but it looks presentable under the behind the new wheels. Rear end will get another set of Peter C's, Anyone want a Tube Shock Setup, it's gotta go as I'm tired of my butt hitting the floorboards and the rear end hitting the bumper stops. Tube Shocks way too soft on Bugsy from my limited driving experience with him. Got to order rest of parts for the rear disc kit. Will do R&R on Rear Springs, Paint and clean up, check all of the bolts and spring leaves, 3.9 pumpkin to drop in. New spring bushings. Then Front tilt and new gas tank install before the end of April. Back at the Right Front Suspension on Sunday morning. It's coming slowly but surely.
 
Yes and then I realized I forgot to install the dust shield. Oops back apart. Craps I also realized when I tightened down the brake pipe it twisted slightly as I tightened. That won't do. New brakes pipes here on Wednesday. Steering rack back out to make it easier to fit the new brake lines. I'll install proportioning valve likely under the bonnet. Will need to plan that wth new brake line to the rear. Right side wishbone is hung. Need to build it up and add spring and new wheel bearings. Never enough time 2 forward and 1 back.
 
Proportioning valve? You going with rear discs?
Twisted brake lines: a hint I got years ago (but have never had to use) was to pull the wheel cylinders and unscrew them FROM the brake lines if unscrewing the brake lines wasn't working. Doug
 
Yes that was the plan but there are some gotchas it appears that I'vedecided I need to get this car ready to drive not continue fettling. I want to have front and rear suspension completely rebuilt, front tilt complete by end of April beginning of May so I can go drive and then turn attention to the new engine and 5 speed to get it installed and fit later Summer. Then back apart for new paint over winter, new interior, wiring harness, etc.
 
Sounds like a good plan, Jim.

Jim_Gruber said:
Yes that was the plan but there are some gotchas it appears that I'vedecided I need to get this car ready to drive not continue fettling. I want to have front and rear suspension completely rebuilt, front tilt complete by end of April beginning of May so I can go drive and then turn attention to the new engine and 5 speed to get it installed and fit later Summer. Then back apart for new paint over winter, new interior, wiring harness, etc.
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