TR6 "New" TR6 Hood Release Cable Won't Open

[Butch]

New guy here, just got 1974 TR6 today, been sitting, got rust, whoops, I mean RUST, Still looks halfway decent though, said was running 6 months ago. It has a hardtop and a tonneau cover but no soft top or bows. Battery down and the hood release won't pull. Any suggestions on getting it to pull or opening the hood, I would really like to get it going. Happy to be here, been lurking for a little bit while looking for car. Previous owner had for 12 years, moved to country and stored in garage, being eternal optimist I assume can add a litte gas, charge battery and drive happily away. (just kidding), I know to change the fluids and check hoses and belts but anything I need to look for specific to these cars? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks! Butch

 

[danmas]

Welcome to the club! This is a common problem, and is rather difficult to deal with. See: https://www.british-cars.co.uk/cgi-bin/ge...504040119537801 for info on how to get it open, and look at some of the threads there on how to avoid this in the future.

Been there, done that!

 

[Geo Hahn]

Here is another site with a release procedure:

https://web.archive.org/web/20021022123731/www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Bonnet/Bonnet.htm

Sorry, it is an archived copy and the picture of the actual tool is missing though you can see it in the pic with Nelson's hand in it... sort of a stretched 'Z'.

Here is a photo of a TR4 -- not quite the same but may help you visualize the process and see how easily a second cable can be installed. The tool (some just use a long screwdriver) goes thru a grommet hole and the lever is pushed in the direction of the yellow arrow:

 

[Paul Johnson]

Without checking the links, which probably say the same thing, try removing the cable retention nut at the handle. You might get enough slack if the cable is simply stretched rather than broken. For future, as Geo Hahn above illustrates, use a gallon paint can handle, go straight through the sidewall, and make a finger loop. I use it as the only opener now, and it'll never slip or break.

 

[Banjo]

I have been able to use a long bar from underneath the car to pop a stuck bonnett. You can see the latch from down there (With a flashlight).
Set the car up on stands, scoot underneath the passenger side, and look up between the engine and frame. You should be able to see all the way up.
Use Geo Hahns pic as a guide. Take a stick, bar or something and push the lever twards the fender. and it should pop. Then use the above link to install the redundant cable.
Or you could have a car like my TR4A, that the bonnett opened over every good bump. Thank goodness it's hinged backwards! Ah well, the hood pins look cool anyway.

 

[Butch]

Thanks for the help, that will be my job for the day I guess. Another question, where is the latch, middle, a foot from passenger or driver side? Thanks again, Butch

 

[Banjo]

Geo's pic shows it well.
The pic is taken looking at the firewall from over the passenger side fender (right fender) The battery is dead center on the firewall. the latch is to its right. So I guess it would put it 10-12" from the right side of the bonnett edge, on the firewall.

 

[Geo Hahn]

That technique of getting at it from below is probably worth trying first. Here is a shot of the TR4 version of what you are looking for -- except you will need to peek around the starter, frame, header etc to get a glimpse of it.

To orient the shot, that is the battery on the left, once again a yellow arrow shows the piece you want to move and the direction it needs to go.