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CaptDon01

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I just found this web site, lot's of good information! I purchased a TR3B several years ago. It belonged to my brother-in-law, who was tragically killed in an accident. The car sat in the garage for over 12 years under a tarp. I was wondering if someone could tell me the number of TR3B's manufactured, and if it's possible to determine when mine was built, (TCF1917L). She's original as best I can tell, although she was painted about 20 years ago, signal red, black interior, wire wheels with 68K miles on her. When she's cold, the engine oil PSI runs around 70, and when she's good and hot, the oil PSI drops to around 45-50 PSI running, and about 20 PSI at idle. Seems a bit low to me, and will probably need an overhaul I'm sure, (10W40 oil). The engine also seems to run rich from the smell, and black smoke. I also use lead additive in the fuel. But she runs, and gets lot's of looks. She is fairly rust free, with only some rust on the bottom of the drivers side font fender behind the wheel, and a few rust bubbles in the dog-leg on the drivers side. Hopefully someone has some answers.

Thanks,

Don, Olathe Ks.
 
I think that Moss Motors and Victoria British both publish in their parts catalogues the numbers made, year of manufacture, etc. Have fun with that car!!
 
Welcome to the site, Don.

3334 TR3Bs were produced between March and December 1962. Based upon your car's number, I'd ballpark a late Sept-October build date.

TR3s spec for 20-50wt oil, and if you're concerned about the rings, you can go to straight 40wt (and 50wt racing oil in the summer.) This should bring your warm idle oil pressure up to normal.

Check your plugs to see if they are fouled with fuel. If so, simply crank the idle mixture adjustment nuts on each carb clockwise a turn or two. You can also use heavier oil in the carb dashpots (leans the mixture out a little.) But don't forget to make sure your timing, spark plug gaps and points gap are correct too.

Hope you enjoy the forum. We're a nutty group of people, but we have a lot of fun, and we're pretty dang good at solving each-other's problems!
 
You're lucky! There were two series in the TR3B lineup. the first was the "TSF" series and those were really unmodified TR3As just being built at another plant. The second was the "TCF" series (that you have) that got the TR4 engine and full syncro gear box.
the "TCFs" were only built between May-to-Oct of 62 and accounted for 2804 of the total 3334 TR3Bs built.
Comission # as follows:
Mar-Sep 62, TSF1-TSF530
May-Oct 62, TCF1-TCF2804
 
Hi Don, and welcome to the board.
A very unfortunate way to acquire a car, but from a positive point of view I hope you will be able to maintain and enjoy driving the car as your brother in law might have.
Sounds like just a few minor issues to resolve, these are simple, rugged cars and easy to "recommission" as they say in England. Just make sure you check brakes and steering components before doing too much driving. Good luck!
Simon.
 
Hi Don,

And welcome!

I think you'll find many interesting smells driving a TR, compared to any modern car! These old cars have open circuit crankcase breathing, no emission controls, and open circuit fuel systems. The cockpits aren't terribly well sealed from the engine compartment, plus a bit of exhaust often wafts in when the top is down.

TRs have a definite "air" about them! So, the previous suggestion is a good one, about judging richness with the spark plugs. It's pretty hard to tell with your nose.

Actually, those oil pressures seem reasonably good, just a little on the low side. A switch to 20w50 oil may be all that's needed. My TR4 ran over 95K hard miles before it needed rings and bearings, and approx another 30-40K since. (I'm not sure since the odometer quit around 96K miles.)

Some richness, slightly low oil pressure and a little oil burning might just be due to the car's long haitus under the tarp. For example, a little surface corrosion on cylinder walls might allow a bit of oil into the combustion chamber and could cure itself with a little driving around as the ring reseat and make a better seal. TRs do like to be driven!

Not sure what all you have done with the car to get it back on the road. With a car that's been sitting a long time, the brake system is always my first area of concern. Old seals and hoses might need replacement and are a critical safety issue. That's especially true on older cars like these that have a single circuit brake system, not a dual circuit such as is found on most modern cars. If a single circuit fails for any reason, you are left with only the parking brake and/or the engine to stop the car!

If you haven't already done so, I'd suggest all fluids be changed. The cooling system could probably use a flush and new rubber hoses and fan belt would be a good precaution.

The exhaust system is another area that should be looked over. The mild steel will rust from the inside out on a stored car, simply from ambient humidity and condensation. Cars driven daily will actually see less exhaust system rust. You just want to be sure there aren't any leaks in the pipes that might send excessive fumes into the cockpit.

Rust can be a concern. Maybe all that's needed is minor spot repair and touchup on those few places you noted. Unfortunately, much TR rust starts on the inside and works its way to the outer surfaces. So, any external spots might be a clue to problems underneath and should be investigated. Hopefully the spots you noted aren't indications of problems underneath.

Opinions are mixed about using lead additives in older cars. Much of what I've read seems to show that only hard driven cars see rapid valve recession. A more gently driven car might see no problem for many, many years.

Of the TR line, the 3"B"s are some of the rarer, more sought after and more valuable. You are fortunate to have one to enjoy, even if it was acquired under unfortunate circumstances.

Cheers!

Alan
 
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