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New to Sprites, need "start up" advice

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T

TxSprite

Freshman Member
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Just got a '63 Sprite MKII. Previous owner stated that it had not been started in over 20 years. He had it covered and inside his garage so it is in pretty decent shape.

My question: What steps should I take before I attempt to start it? (Change Oil? Change Coolant? Change Gas? Brake Fluid? Etc.)

Other "newbie" questions: Positively grounded? Brake and clutch share same reservoir?? Any specific brake fluid?

Thanks for your help, looking forward to your responses.
 
My advice to you, which was given to me by fellow LBC fanatics on the forum, is to go buy the proper Bentley Manual for your car. It has a TON of information that will answer most of your questions.

Joel
 
Member Tony Barnhill has some excellent tips on doing just this on his website. www.theautoist.com
The '63 should be positive ground, and yes, the brakes and clutch share the same master cylinder reservoir. I've always used Castrol LMA brake fluid, but if you can't find it, any good DOT 4 spec fluid will work. DON'T put DOT 3 in it.
Jeff
 
Welcome!
Obviously, change the oil and filter first.
I'd remove the carb float bowls and blow them clean...for sure, they are gunked up. Also blow out the carb needle, main jet and the tube that transfers fuel from the bowl to the main jet.
Remove the plugs and squirt a teaspoon of oil in the cylinders. Put the car in 4th gear and push it gently to make sure the engine turns over(and is not "stuck").
Then spin it a bit with the plugs out (it will spin faster so that you can get the oil pump pumping a bit of oil around).
I'd clean or replace plugs (0.025" gap) and clean the points or replace them as well (0.015" gap). Clean the distributor cap and rotor.
It may require some "starting fluid", so have a fire extinquisher handy!
Tony's info (Jeff referenced it above) is a more extensive list of stuff to do. Look at it too.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Member Tony Barnhill has some excellent tips on doing just this on his website. www.theautoist.com
The '63 should be positive ground, and yes, the brakes and clutch share the same master cylinder reservoir. I've always used Castrol LMA brake fluid, but if you can't find it, any good DOT 4 spec fluid will work. DON'T put DOT 3 in it.
Jeff

[/ QUOTE ]

Off topic slightly, but what's wrong with DOT 3? I keep hearing this banted about, but I have not yet heard the real reason why, other than "they have natural rubber" in them. My Midget manual says it can use DOT 3, and most cars do have natural rubber in the brake seals, which is why you should never get anything petroleum based get on them.
 
On later cars built after about 75 or so, neoprene seals were used rather than rubber. In fact I don't think you can buy new seals that are rubber anymore. I could be wrong.
Any way I use silicone, yes some one will till ya it won't work and have some horror story.
But where used properly it works great.
I even use it in my racecars. I am sure this will open the can of worms.
In any case you will likely need to rebuild the whole system, do forget the three flex lines. They are the major cause of concerns with silicone.
 
If I could make a suggestion...

Drop the gas tank, and have it cleaned out professionally (radiator shop). The reason for the suggestion is I didn’t do this with my little car (a Bugeye), and I really wish I had!

Let's just say “smelly” old gas = possible stuck valve! Which, in my case, was what happened?

I guess the up-side is I have a nice new (rebuilt) head. One less thing that I will have to do to the little car down the road.

By the way… Welcome…

cd
 
Congrats !

I did the same to a 64 2 years ago. I'd start with the fuel system. Clean & rebuild the carb's -- You have to take them apart to clean them out and soak them with carb cleaner (like a gallon paint can).

I ended up replacing the fuel filter, you make the call on that. Checking the fuel tank is a great idea. Mine had so much crud in it - I bought a new one.

The Vic British catalog will be your best friend when it comes to details / diagrams.

Use lots of Marvel Mystey Oil on each cylinder. The idea and spinning the crank by rolling the car in 4th is a great idea.

Your car is a positive earth. Not a big deal to switch over. All depends on how eager you are to upgrade and repalce.

I found out my engine (1098) was gunked up and needed cleaned (major overheating issues due to a 6 month search of the water jackets / passages inside of the cyl head were blocked up with anti-freeze (20 years takes the water out of them and leaves sludge). End result -- it was cheaper to obtain a 1275 engine and have it rebuilt than finding parts for the 1098. Not many were made and parts are more expensive and more scarce.

I did ask what upgrades should be on my short list on BCF: Petronix Ignition & Oil Cooler were the most common answers.

You'll love this group. I was in your shoes 2 years ago and after a much larger project that I anticipated (money & time) -- I'm glad to have completed it. I've learned alot and we really enjoy the car.

Even my wife enjoys the car shows! !

Feel free to email me if you have specific Q's.

Tx-

George
 
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