New-to-me Mini Pics

[eureeca]

Here's a picture of my new-to-me Mini. As you can see, it's a long way from roadworthy at this point. The goal is to get the bodywork done this year and the drivetrain next year. Media blaster is purchased and on its way, and I'm hoping to get started on it in the next couple of weeks.

-Erica

 

[eureeca]

When I purchased the car it came with a number of spare parts, including a roof. The previous owner said that the roof is from a different year and won't fit the car. I'd like to sell it since I don't need it, but I don't know what year(s) it will fit. I compared measurements of the car's roof and the spare and I can't find any differences. Does anyone know of any way I can determine the year, or does it not matter because they're all the same?

 

[Dug]

I think I can answer this question but maybe not completely.
The differences would be in the area of the holes/splits that are for draining water around the top. There are a few different shapes and styles according to year.
The side panels (windows) would be different as well; MKIII-MKIV had larger side windows so “if” the upper area, just under the top were used in grafting it on to the MKI car I’m not sure how that would all work? The back glass is different (larger) than a MKI. Not knowing how a body person would graft a top on I’d say these are the differences that maybe the past owner was speaking of.
There is more to this I'm sure but a talented body person can be very creative for sure.
"dug"

 

[dklawson]

You're about to start a fun journey. Enjoy yourself.

I can't comment about the roof except to agree with Doug that a body person could probably make your donor roof work for any number of other Minis regardless of their age.

I suggest you buy a copy of Lindsay Porter's book on Mini restoration along with a copy of Haynes. Watch eBay for copies of other manuals (you can never have too many). Parnell makes a great reference book for all Minis, not just the Cooper and -S.

I noticed something in the picture. A previous owner has cut out the stiffening brace for the bonnet slam panel (probably because they fit an oil cooler at one point. You'll want to put a brace back in for strength. I also noticed that you've got a pre-1966 Mk1 with a fully rounded front valence. That's a nice period feature. Try and keep it if possible. Likewise, this car would originally have had sills with 4 drain slots. Later cars and ones that are repaired often get new 6 slot sills. If you're going for originality and have to replace the sills, I believe you can still special order the 4 slot sills.

 

[Silverghost]

Any updates??

 

[eureeca]

Hi everyone,

Sorry it's taken me so long to come by and give the update. Time flies.

Thank you Dug and dklawson for your input. I'm happy to say that the roof has found a new home in FL. I'm always glad to rehome parts and open up a little space.

I see what you mean about the stiffening member. It's still partially attached and is just kind of dangling. I started disassembling what is left on the car last weekend, and I'm hoping to get it on a rotisserie soon. I'm going to try the Dawn Power Dissolver trick that the MG guys have been keeping to themselves. Underneath the black paint there's red paint, and what looks like red and white pinstriping around the roof gutters.

-Erica

 

[dklawson]

I used the Dawn PD on the floors of my project Spitfire. Remember to spray the surface then cover it with plastic bags to prevent evaporation. Limit yourself to a few square feet at a time. Give the Dawn overnight (or longer) to work. Don't expect the paint to fall off or bubble up like traditional paint strippers will cause. Expect to use wire brushes and/or ScotchBrite to remove the softened paint. It's still a lot of work but the chemicals you'll be using are a lot more friendly than the VOCs in traditional paint removers.

Keep us posted with your progress!