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TR2/3/3A New Seat Pans

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DavidApp

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I have just received the seat pans I ordered from KAS in Australia.

The seats that came with my TR3A were in good condition apart from the normal rust around the pan. Thought of repairing the rust but the pans seemed a bit thin for welding and getting a good result.
Someone here mentioned KAS in Australia and when I checked their site I found that they sell seats or just the pans.

They were easy to deal with on line and the pans arrived today. They look great.
The exchange rate helps us here in the US. Got 2 pans and shipping for a total of $210.00.

The construction looks good but is a little different to the original in that the pan is in 2 pieces. Bottom and welded rim. Almost impossible to tell from the top but obvious from the under side.

David

Fixwd seat pan.jpgFolding seat pan.jpgUnderside of pan.jpgPan construction.jpg
 
Looks like a very good option! It would seem easier to stamp it in one pop, but limiting the amount of metal stretch by making the pan in 2 parts may allow thicker metal with the finished product. Be sure to update as you trim them out.
 
Will do.

The cost of a press tool compared to the number of pans they are likely to make probable makes their system more cost effective, Said the pan is 20 gauge like the original with a 16 gauge perimeter on the folding seat.

They are in Delacombe Victoria

David
 
Certainly might be wrong but I always thought the seats were originally made with 18ga. Minor point though, the Aussie seats look great.
Tom
 
I can check the my original seat pans. Mind you rust may have reduced the thickness a bit.

It measures 0.034 to 0.040 depending where I measure. Rust and the POs paint may be affecting my measurement a bit.

David
 
I show .0478 for 18ga and .0359 for 20ga. so 20 would surely be in the ballpark. Remember that the original pressings would have been highly stressed and might not reflect the original gauge in many areas. However, the new two piece fabrications should do nicely from 20ga but seeing the stress fractures in most old seat frames, 18 would have been even better. Still I'd not hesitate to use them.
Tom
 
I am trying to find the article I read on seat rebuilding. Not sure where it was but I think it was published by one of the big three parts houses. It gave very clear instructions on how it should be done.
Any ideas?

David
 
I've done the same thing-- only ordered the driver side. I think I can spot weld the repairs needed on the pax seat. You might have gotten the last pax seat pan... they had only one left and needed it for comparison! They're gonna let me know when more are available.

Suprisingly, they're the only ones in the world (That I've found) that sell just the pans. Let's give 'em some business, boys!
 
Got the drivers seat repaired. New pan attached to the old back. There was one small area that needed repair.

I am trying to find the article I read on Seat re upholstery. I think it was on the Macys site but I can't find it now. Went into great detail on how to re do the seats.

David
Separating the pan from the back.jpgSmall repair necessary..jpgSeat finished.jpg
 
Looks like new. Now I wish you found these before I bought the entire seat frames!
 
Hello John

Thank you.

Glad that I decided to not try to repair the pan. The PO had just painted over the rust so I found the pan was worse than I had feared. It nearly fell apart when I worked on separating the back from the pan.
The new compressor did great sandblasting the back.

David
 
It was not too hard to do. I located all the spot welds and drilled them out but did not go all the way through the seat back. The layer of rust between the back and pan helped to let me know when I had gone far enough. There was a weld on both sides about where my screwdriver is positioned that had to be cut.
Separating the pan from the back.jpg
I used a Dremel cutting wheel to do that. Then I carefully eased them apart. Took an old wood chisel and tapped it down by each spot weld and worked my way round the seat,

Then sand blasted the back and put a small patch in one side. Sprayed the mating surfaces with weld through primer even though the car will not get left out in the elements like they were when they were in their prime. Punched weld through holes in the new pan in approximately the same positions as the original.

Using a combination of wedges, clamps and vice grips I got the back and pan pulled together

Unfortunately I am not as good as John with my documentation. Can work or document but not both together.

What color should the seat pan be? Body color or black the guide does not mention it.

DAVID
 
Every one I have taken apart looked like it started life gloss black. Your's look great with the new pans!
 
Hello John

Thank you.

Gloss Black is good as it only shows if the spring seat part is removed.

Getting some sand blasting done so I can prime the parts and not waste too much paint. Blasting wheels at the moment having got 5 good steel wheels now. Rattle can Silver wheel paint?

David
 
You are welcome.

They were easy to deal with and the order shipped quickly. No Pay Pal only Visa. Had me send the Visa info in 2 separate e mails.

David
 
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