New Rotor, Car starts, but.....

[2wrench]

But during rebuild, my buddy dropped an exhaust bolt and
always thought it went down the exhaust pipe. We tried
to retrieive it with magnets and the like, but to no avail.

Now comes this terrible rattle. I am convinced what I'm
hearing is the bolt vibrating down in the exhaust. It has
not reached the far back end.

Car is starting and I want to set the timing, etc. Is it
possible that this bolt can move back towards the muffler
and do some damage if I continue to idle the car whilst I
continue tuning?

Any suggestions re going after that bugger that's down in
the pipe? I sure would hate a complete removal of the
exhaust system....

Also, I might add it does appear that the car is running
at about 4 degrees after top dead center presently. Further,
the vacum line that crosses from the driver's side accross
the valve cover and connects near the carburetors is
disconnected. When I connect it, the idle goes so far
down that the car will die. So for now, that's where I'm
at. Under present conditions, the car starts and actually idles pretty well....
What do you suggest/see?

 

[TR4nut]

I was going to suggest disconnecting the exhaust at the manifold, tipping the car upside down and shaking, but that probably isn't the easiest to do..

But seriously, how about just disconnecting the muffler, firing it up briefly and seeing if you can blow it out of there?

Randy

 

[TR3driver]

I'd guess the bolt is actually outside the exhaust, caught somewhere between it and something else, to rattle that loud.

I assume you're aware that the 4 ATDC timing figure is only with the vacuum retard line connected. With it disconnected, the timing should be somewhere around 10 BTDC. (I forget the exact number for a 74 TR6 offhand, but it's given in the book as 'static' timing.)

Running with the timing retarded all the time will reduce gas mileage and power; and might contribute to overheating.

 

[poolboy]

When I got my dizzy back from Jeff Schlemmer of Advanced Distributors he suggested for my stock 74 the sweet spot could be found between 10 and 14 degrees BTDC at idle speed with the vacuum to the dizzy disconnected and pluged while setting the timing.

 

[AltaKnight]

I take it the hose you're referring to is the brake booster vacuum hose which needs to be connected.
It sounds like the timing is late, if you advance the timing the idle speed will increase and it will quit stalling.
My car a '73, is timed at about 12 deg BTDC which is where it likes to be.
The bolt can't really damage anything but will drive you crazy if it keeps rattling around. Short of dismantling the exhaust then the only thing to do is rig a long magnet on a flexible device, disconnect the manifold to exhaust flange and maybe try a piece of garden hose with the strong magnet glued to the end.

 

[Tinster]

the vacum line that crosses from the driver's side accross
the valve cover and connects near the carburetors is
disconnected. When I connect it, the idle goes so far
down that the car will die.

Dennis, don't mean to hijack your thread but my question
kinda belongs in here.

Q: I have the twin ear dizzy, rebuilt by Jeff Palya, with
advance and retard pipes. I have noticed there is NO change
in engine RPM when I remove one or both pipes.

But yet, I checked the timing advance up to 4000 rpm
and the proper advance takes place.

Just a curiosity. I detect no vacuum when I attach a meter
to either pipe. (At idle)

thanks

d

 

[poolboy]

But yet, I checked the timing advance up to 4000 rpm
and the proper advance takes place.



d

That would indicate that the centrifugal advance weights are working.