• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

New Radiator

Share this page

F

fogdot

Jedi Hopeful
Offline
I am going to replace my radiator. I don't need the crank hole, and want to keep cooler.
A new aluminum is best, right?
If I install an electric fan, can I remove the fan and hub from the crank?
 
Hi Fogdot, IMOP the only advantage of an Ali radiator is; it can be built in a larger size without incurring a weight penalty. Preferably, in terms of cooling efficiency and cost a re-cored oversize serpentine copper radiator is the best way to go. If the electric fan can be installed as a puller and is of the correct size the original car's fan may be discarded.---Fwiw--Keoke
 
Aloha Fogdot,

I have had three or four original brass radiators recored with excellent results. In terms of cost, it was less than a new replacement radiator. Cooling performance is good and I have not had to use my "back up" electric fan. The electric fan is 11" diameter and mounted on the front of the radiator (pusher configuration). I have replaced the stock metal four bladed fan with a polymer flexi-fan from NAPA. I had to modify the 14" diameter fan by cutting it down to 13" diameter. Make sure the rest of your cooling system is clean and free of corrosion and the water pump and thermostat are working properly.

Regarding removing the stock fan and hub extension, these pieces also act as a harmonic dampener of sorts. There are sources that can provide a modern harmonic dampener to replace the original crank shaft pulley, but you may have to change the generator and water pump pulleys to a smaller width fan belt. I'm not sure if there is any detrimental effect to running an engine at 2500 - 3000 RPM with out harmonic dampening. I'm sure that there are many engine builders on the forum that will educate us.
 
Certainly, if the engine does not have any other form of harmonic dampening then the fan and hub should be retained. Upgrading the stock car's fan to a more efficient flex fan is an additional option that could be considered. Some installations have experienced engine heating using the pusher configuration of the electric fan. In these cases the fan cools adequately at idle but blocks cooling air entry at speed. At best the techniques that work for a given owners car are the methods to use Dave.--Keoke
 
I have had good luck for years by fitting the 7 blade TR6 fan. You have to mount it backwards on a TR3, but it will fit that way, uses the stock rubber mounts, and moves a lot more air.

My 2 cents worth

Jesse
 
As Jesse points out the key to cooling a TR3 is to move alot of air through the radiator. The TR3 stock four blade fan is not very good at moving air. Even though the TR6 yellow fan is mounted back wards, it will still move more air than the original fan.

Another item I forgot to mention is the fiber board shroud that mount behind the front cowl. It does a great job of directing air flow through the radiator.
 
Back
Top