• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

New Radiator from TRF problems??

Well, here is what they say, they didnt know there was a problem untill I pointed it out, they went and check all the new radiators and all them have undersize inlet/outlet and meteric mounting bolts. they said they couldnt find any with a tweak (twist/warp) like mine. They were already in the process of filing a complaint with the supplier. John is who I talked to, he said to send it back for full refund, he said he recomends to recore my old radiator because of the problems with the new stuff. He was very understanding of the situation and had a good attitude. I was left with the feeling that they will not pull the radiators from their shelves and will take their chances--but I dont know that for sure.----------------So, has anyone bought radiators from VB or Moss and were they any good? From what I have read before it cost about $350 to recore, I do not want to jump up in cost for an aluminum.------------ John agreed with me that the inlet/outlet tubing was probably metric which was why they were undersize. He said they didnt know where the radiators are made but they could have come from England-- even with the metrics-??
 
I do have the old radiator and it is or at leaast was servicable when removed. The bottom tank is somewhat bent but not leaking. Hopefully a radiator shop can straighten this out, at least somewhat.
Sounds to me as if a recore is the best way to go,
I will start shoping around.
Thanks
Who makes aluminum ones for a TR-3? I may look into one.
 
Im going to give it one more try with a different vender (VB). One thing about tr6 TRF radiators is they no longer offer early and late models, they went to a one fits all which is probably one reason for the lower quality. I will report back when I get the VB radiator----they still sell three different radiators for the tr6--early, mid and late
 
No offense ALLAN, but that's the *last* place I'd order a rad from. You're going to pay $30 shipping to you and another $20 to return it, which they won't refund.

The repros are all made in China. There's a reason why they're only $200.

You're much better off sourcing a used original and having it rebuilt. Yes, it'll cost twice as much, but it will be perfect.

Sorry, I don't mean to sound negative...
 
I bought a "new" made in somewhere other then Britain radiator from TRF for my TR3. I bought it about a year ago and haven't had time to install it. Now I'm paranoid! I'm going to have to make some measurements.

I typically choose TRF because they seem to pay attention to fine details more. This is not a plug..TRF has their problems too.
 
mcguijo, If it came from their old supplier you will probably be OK. Nobody that has used a VB radiator gave me any feed-back, so I will take my chances--hopefully it will be better than TRFs, sometimes you got to live and learn.
 
I just did a couple of quick checks with a tape measure. Seemed to match up with the original. I need to find my calipers though.
 
Most of the stuff I've bought from TRF has been made in Taiwan. Never bought a radiator from them but I have purchased a lot of other stuff that's marked from Taiwan, not China. I can't say it's just them because Moss also sources a lot from Taiwan too. Quality of these items is OK, but generally a step or two down from UK made original replacement parts. Usually the parts look OK but are made with thinner/lighter materials, just not quite the same.

The ball joint I just received from TRF was from Taiwan, has non-original looking castelated nuts that are metric threads and came with a warning to use only the included hardware. So I have one ball-joint with original fittings and one with metric. Kinda sucky IMHO.

I agree that the best radiator you will get for the money is a recored original.
 
I agree with Peter. If the frame of your old radiator is solid, a quality radiator shop can solder in a complete new core set and it will be better than new, and well built. You can even improve you radiator by having them add and extra-large core for additional coolant. Will cost you between 2 and 4 hundred but you will be done with it.
 
A good, old copper radiator will cool better than one of the new aluminum ones. There are several different styles of cores (fin and tube, plate and tube, etc) and most new radiators use the least efficient design.

I'll take an old TR core and redo it way before I'd ever consider a new 'production' aluminum job.

There are some good alloy radiators out there but none of the big parts guys sell 'em...
 
When mine went,I took it to a local radiator shop &
had it recored.They do good work.It was about $300,but
if it keeps going,it's cheaper in the long run.

- Doug
 
I still recommend the Aluminum now Woody has made, I do nto know if they have the model to make an other than a TR8 version, but I do like it. I considered having my perfectly good "old" rad re-cored but it was only $75 LESS THAN THE NEW aLUMINUM ONE. I am very happy with it
 
Scott_Hower said:
So, have we convinced ALLAN? :smile:

Call your local rad shop and ask for a recore quote using a 4-row "flat fin" core.
-------------What is the difference between flat fin and a stock tr6 radiator fin ??-------Im on my way to the radiator shop today
 
Shouldnt be any difference; most stock LBC rads used "flat-fin" cores. It's just the style of cooling fin for the tubes. Newer rads use a "corrugated" or "honeycomb" fin between the tubes. Would probably work fine (maybe even better), looks out of place on an LCB - to my mind anyway.

Good luck cancelling your VB order. I tried that once and they refused "Sorry, our system wont let us do that". What a crock. In my experience, they have the absolute worst customer service of any of the major suppliers. The only time I use them anymore are when parts are not available anywhere else and I'm desperate.

Are you aware that you can order VB parts (discounted) through Tony Barnhill?
 
The 'flat fin' is actually called a 'plate and tube' style by most old timers (like me). These will usually have a staggered tube design which gets air to the tubes more efficiently than other designs. Plus it's inherently a much stronger design than a modern design. You can have these built with louvered fins for an even higher thermal efficiency.

It's a much better piece than a 'tube and fin' which is the modern type with 'z' style fins.

Here's some tech info from US Radiator.
https://www.usradiator.com/options.htm
 
Scott_Hower said:
Good luck cancelling your VB order. I tried that once and they refused "Sorry, our system wont let us do that". What a crock. In my experience, they have the absolute worst customer service of any of the major suppliers. The only time I use them anymore are when parts are not available anywhere else and I'm desperate.

Are you aware that you can order VB parts (discounted) through Tony Barnhill?
-----They cancelled it with no problems and it was ready to ship, the only problem I have had with them is--no technical help.---now to the radiator shop.
 
Radiator shop gave me a choice--straight fin or louvered, I chose the louvered, I didnt need the original look (you get that with the tanks and frame anyway)and the louvered are more efficient with more fin per sq.inch and more fin contact per tube. Price--$185, it is a reputable shop in my area that has been around for years and does many hot rod and race car radiators. It payed to listen to all the advice--Thanks
 
I got the radiator back today,it looks like new, they installed an extra thick core in it--just barely fit in. (total with tax,$200)Everybody was right--recore is the only way to go.
 
Back
Top