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New owner, old questions...

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Ulf

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I have just been blessed with a '77 Midget and have never worked with one before and have a couple of question to start with (yes the list is much much longer than the ones below, but I have to start at the top).

1) I find quickly that the clutch has to be replaced and get two different advice on changing, one saying I have to lift out the engine the other that I don't have to.

2) The ignition switch stopped working. Before quitting, it was hard to turn and would not "spring back" after getting to the start position. Is there a chance of taking it apart and fixing it or is
 
The definitive answer to question #1 is you DO have to pull the engine AND tranny out together....Not a difficult job though! For question # 2, you can pull out and rebuild the ignition switch, though I am not too familiar wih the column-mounted switch with steering lock on the newer cars!
 
The engine has to come out.

I have no experience with the ignition switch, but it sounds worth a try, unless you can find a used one.

Patrick
 
Before you pull the motor Ulf, why do you say your clutch is bad?

Frequently bad clutch hydralics are mistaken for a bad clutch. Especially on the 75-79 models as the clutch hydralics are EXTREMELY difficult to bleed.
 
The pedal needs to be pushed all the way to the bottom for the clutch to work.

The mechanic I saw (not an Midget nor even an MG specialist) said he heard the bearing.

Is there a way to check if it is the hydralics?
 
That sounds like bad hydraulics to me. The most typical symptom of a bad clutch is slipping. If you are uncertain of the condition of your clutch hydraulics, it's a safe bet they need to be rebuilt. But the good news is that except for the bleeding, it's an easy and affordable job.

The mechanic probably heard the throw-out bearing, which is probably going bad. Personally, I would live with it until it degrades to the point that replacement is absolutely neccessary. Others will almost certainly disagree with this philosphy.
 
Morris

I actually agree with you hehehe

Before rebuilding hydraulics, I would give it a quick bleeding and see if that helps. It leaves me curious as to the condition and color of the fluid.

Patrick
 
Unless the noise is the crankshaft thrusting forward, as 1500s are wont to do. Check the crank end play.

Peter
 
Oh yuk, it all needs recycled. Perge the system and see if bleeding etc does not get you going.
 
Definitly purge the system. Hydraulic fluid shouldn't even be brown let alone what you are describing. Look for a light "honey" color at worst, and if the clutch pedal is soft it almost certainly is a hydraulic, not a clutch, problem. Unlike the brake, the clutch pedal will go all the way down to release the clutch, but it should feel like it is offering some resistance. If no or little resistance is felt, there is almost certainly air in the line and it needs bled!!
 
...and the rebuilding of either the slave or the master is easy.
 
And probably should be done as well, given the state of the fluid you described!
 
Thanks for all the advise.... :smile:

Now that I know I need to replace the hydraulics and bleed it correctly, next step is doing it. Yes I have ordered the Chiltons but has yet not arrived and as you can see I am eager to get things going as soon as I can.

If you have any quick tips that would be wonderful.

Ohh yes along those lines.... It seems I need to either take off the instrument panel or unbolt the stering column to get the ignition switch out. Is that the case or am I just missing the obvious?
 
You need to drop the column to get the cowl off. This requires removing the column to rack pinch bolt, removing the 3 (or 4?) bolts where the column goes through the fire wall, and the nuts under the column inside the car(make note of the spacer locations).

I have an ignition switch from a '79 but I do not know if it works. I'll try to test it out sometime in the following week if you find you need one.
 
Castrol LMA.
 
When I got my 77 midget it had a key broken off in the ignition. I removed it to get the broken part out. (I actually took the broken pieces down to the local hardware store with a blank I ordered on-line and he cut me a key that works and even unlocks the doors.)Anyway, its not too hard to get out.
 
As for the clutch bleeding--do a search through all previous forum postings. You'll find a lot of wisdom there. It's a subject that comes up frequently.
 
If you are willing to muscle things a bit, you may be able to get the cowling (plastic covering around the ignition switch) off without dropping the column. I have always been able to.

Doc's expertise is far, far, far, far greater than mine, but I am going to disagree with him on the Castrol LMA advice (may the car gods have mercy on my soul!). Catrol LMA was a must for early Spridgets, because conventional brake fluid would eat the seals. Castrol LMA is hard to come by nowadays. I would reccomend silicon brake fluid. This can be found at most any big parts store, and it won't rot your seals, lines or paint. Also, it does not absorb moisture, so it lasts much longer than other brake fluids. It's durn good stuff.
 
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