• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

New owner, OE fuel tank or new fuel cell?

RyanBez

Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Hey guys,

I just got a new project and was hoping to get some advice. I picked up a 62 sprite with the 1098 and a recent front disc brake conversion. I have a rolling body and enough parts for 1.5 cars.

One thing I don't have is a fuel tank, pump, etc. I'm considering a new fuel cell and pump for safety and performance reasons, but <span style="font-weight: bold">I'm having troubling finding the fuel line sizes that are OE</span>. Most fuel cells are 8AN which are kind of big.

Also, is this conversion recommended? I know it isn't to spec, but I plan to drive this car a few times a week during the summer months and want reliability (I do know I bought a British car).

I've also read that the old mechanical fuel pumps are dangerous because leaks are common and they are close the the headers. <span style="font-weight: bold">Getting a newer fuel pump will also cause me to do a pos-ground to neg-ground conversion which should only affect the distributor, fuel pump, and generator correct?</span>

I have the engine and carbs rebuilt and want to pan out some of the electrical before I start it up.

<span style="font-weight: bold">Any and all suggestions are welcome.</span> I would like to keep this car to OE but I don't want to purposely make the car unreliable and dangerous.
 
My advise, a stock tank or tank boiled and lined with an electric fuel pump. A nice airtex e80165 elec fuel pump from your friendly car place is like $50 and does not care about positive/negative ground.
 
I agree, especially with the fuel pump. The replacement stock tanks are not very costly.
 
Right, I understand the new tanks are pretty cheap. But if they are true reproductions of the old ones, gas can escape pretty easily and steal gas milage.

That being said, I've priced out the original and think I'll go with it, about $200 for the whole assembly (including filler hose and cap) can't be beat.

Thanks for the help. I think I found somewhere that the fuel lines are 1/4", is this correct? Any suggestions on copper or a newer breaded steel line?
 
Yep, 1/4 inch fuel lines.

How can gas escape. Only a pin hole in the cap. A full tank of gas will still be there this time next year.
 
I'm not totally sure, I read it somewhere. I'm still new to this restoration thing, just graduated school and this is my first attempt.

I don't know the secrets of Sprite yet so I have to take peoples word for it. I appreciate all the help!

From what I can tell the original didn't have a fuel pressure regulator, however, if I switch to the electric fuel pump like the Napa one suggested above, is this recommended? I know the fuel pump is from 1.5-4 PSI, just want to know what others are doing.

I've never really worked with fuel systems before, mainly just engine, tranny, and electrical with some autobody thrown in so sorry if these questions are no brainers.
 
I see no reason why the stock fuel tank should lose fuel or why a fuel cell should be more reliable. Believe me, when it comes to Spridget reliability, the tank is waaaaaay down on the list of potential problems.

In my opinion, an electric fuel pump is a good idea. So is a regulator, since too-high pressure at the carbs can blow fuel past the float valve and cause flooding. I use a 1.5-4 PSI Facet fuel pump (mine puts out 3.5 PSI) and the low-pressure Holley regulator. I keep the pressure at the carbs between 1.5-2 PSI. You really don't need a higher pressure. Be sure that the pump is mounted near the tank and as low as you can get it.

See https://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/fuel/ for my experience doing this.
 
I use the low pressure pump noted above, Airtex low pressure, no regulator, Works fine. Was a smart way for me to go.
 
Wow, I really like that write up. I was actually thinking of going with the Facet pump. Thanks for all the help! 1 issue down a million to go!
 
Sorry, rechecked: mine is the 3-4.5 PSI pump. Quite likely that the 1.5-4 PSI pump will be OK without a regulator, but if your particular pump comes in near 4.5, you could have a problem. It's the luck of the draw.

Try it at first without the regulator; it might be fine. And then, if you have to add one, it's not a big deal or even expensive.
 
Thanks guys, I bought the facet pump and OE tank tonight. I'll have to experiment to see if I'll need a regulator.

Since everything is out of the car I really just need this stuff to make sure the engine works before I start preping/painting the engine bay. Hopefully everything works!
 
Back
Top