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New Oil Pump startup
- Thread starter JPSmit
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dklawson
Yoda
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I did not see the other thread so I hope the following does not duplicate too much of what you have already been told.
I assume this is an A-series and that you packed the oil pump before installation.
Obviously, all fresh/new fluids. One engine builder I spoke with said for the initial first start, use water, not anti-freeze as it is less likely to mix with engine oil if there is a head gasket leak.
If this is a spin-on filter mounted vertically, fill it with engine oil before installation.
If you have not set the static timing, set it somewhere between 5 and 8 BTDC.
If the head has been off, make sure you have adjusted the valves.
If you worked on the carb(s), set them to the initial start settings as described in your manual.
Remove the spark plugs and crank the engine over on the starter until you see that oil pressure has built up.
Replace the plugs and remove the radiator cap.
With a hose and fire extinguisher handy, start the engine.
Assuming this is a new cam and followers, bring the engine speed up to 2000 RPM using the idle speed screws. Hold it there for 20 minutes.
During the 20 minute fast idle time watch the exhaust manifold. If it starts glowing red, richen the mixture.
Also, be watching the open filler neck of the radiator. As the water heats and the t-stat opens, the coolant level will drop. Top up the coolant and continue monitoring. Expect to fill the radiator at least twice.
Afte 20 minutes, reduce the idle speed to where you want it and then allow a short low speed idle period before you switch off.
After the engine cools, check for any leaks and check the fluids for contamination that would indicate a head gasket leak. If none, retorque the cylinder head and readjust the valves.
I am sure I have forgotten a few steps but the steps above are the main things I do on a first re-start after a rebuild.
I assume this is an A-series and that you packed the oil pump before installation.
Obviously, all fresh/new fluids. One engine builder I spoke with said for the initial first start, use water, not anti-freeze as it is less likely to mix with engine oil if there is a head gasket leak.
If this is a spin-on filter mounted vertically, fill it with engine oil before installation.
If you have not set the static timing, set it somewhere between 5 and 8 BTDC.
If the head has been off, make sure you have adjusted the valves.
If you worked on the carb(s), set them to the initial start settings as described in your manual.
Remove the spark plugs and crank the engine over on the starter until you see that oil pressure has built up.
Replace the plugs and remove the radiator cap.
With a hose and fire extinguisher handy, start the engine.
Assuming this is a new cam and followers, bring the engine speed up to 2000 RPM using the idle speed screws. Hold it there for 20 minutes.
During the 20 minute fast idle time watch the exhaust manifold. If it starts glowing red, richen the mixture.
Also, be watching the open filler neck of the radiator. As the water heats and the t-stat opens, the coolant level will drop. Top up the coolant and continue monitoring. Expect to fill the radiator at least twice.
Afte 20 minutes, reduce the idle speed to where you want it and then allow a short low speed idle period before you switch off.
After the engine cools, check for any leaks and check the fluids for contamination that would indicate a head gasket leak. If none, retorque the cylinder head and readjust the valves.
I am sure I have forgotten a few steps but the steps above are the main things I do on a first re-start after a rebuild.
dklawson
Yoda
Offline
With the 1500 it's not practical to pre-fill the oil filter. Some Triumph owners pull the distributor and use a shaft in a drill (running in reverse) to operate the oil pump and pre-prime the engine with oil. The last Triumph engine I did, I chose not to do that. Instead I pulled the plugs and cranked on the starter until I had oil pressure. I would do this again in a heartbeat as you can leave the engine static timed before firing up.
A lot of the other stuff I mentioned applies to the 1500... but is way over the top for you since you only replaced the pump.
I assume you were careful with the front sealing block and were also careful fitting the sealing wedges. Keep an eye on that area during your startup and for several months once you are back on the road.
I also assume you checked the pump clearances and dressed the ends flat and to minimize clearances. Did you not slip new bearing shells in while the pan was off?
A lot of the other stuff I mentioned applies to the 1500... but is way over the top for you since you only replaced the pump.
I assume you were careful with the front sealing block and were also careful fitting the sealing wedges. Keep an eye on that area during your startup and for several months once you are back on the road.
I also assume you checked the pump clearances and dressed the ends flat and to minimize clearances. Did you not slip new bearing shells in while the pan was off?
glemon
Yoda
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I have never packed a pump with vaseline, I have heard good and bad about doing it, the good being it helps the pump pick up oil quick and work as intended, the bad that it may clog up the pump and inhibit the process presumably because it is too thick to flow through the pump.
The only time I had trouble building pressure after a rebuild or fitting a new pump was with my TR250, It just would not build up pressure spinning on the starter with the plugs out. I ended up rigging up a bit on a battery powered electric drill to spin it and get some oil flow. It worked.
The only time I had trouble building pressure after a rebuild or fitting a new pump was with my TR250, It just would not build up pressure spinning on the starter with the plugs out. I ended up rigging up a bit on a battery powered electric drill to spin it and get some oil flow. It worked.
dklawson
Yoda
Offline
As big a battery with the most CCA you can stuff in the battery box (and puts the terminals in the right position).
Regarding Vaseline and packing the pump, this is second hand, but I have an acquaintance who did that as part of an A-series rebuild and he overdid it. He could not get oil moving so he removed the filter and found the paper pleats were packed full of the Vaseline. Since his experience I have only used assembly lube to fill pumps during a rebuild.