Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
Hi all, I'm the second owner of a 63 TR4 with a surrey top in southeast Colorado. I try to do as much of the work needed as I can. Now in the process of fixing blow by in the third cylinder. Need some advice on honing cylinder sleeves. I have the head off and am ready to pull sleeves and pistons. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Mike /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
-
Hi Guest!
You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
New member and cylinder honing
- Thread starter MikeH
- Start date
Share this page
trrdster2000
Luke Skywalker
Offline
MikeH, if you are going to hone, the best way is the tree hone. looks like a lot of balls on a string. Bendrix labs did a test many years ago and found this was the best, as it did not leave sharp edges. Wayne
Offline
I always use a good old fashioned cylinder hone. Just get the slowest drill you can get and run it about 50 rpms, to get the best cross hatching.
Hi from Boise Mike,
A couple of things to look at here not knowing how much engine rebuild experience you have. First I think is the condition of the sleeve. Is it worn out? Is there a ridge at the top? Are the pistons worn? There should be between .003 and .0015 clearance between the piston and sleeve. This is a general rule and you should be able to find exact specs if you need to. At any rate there can't be too much play between the two. Are the ring lands in good shape? Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I think .002 is recomended for clearance between the ring and piston. If they are too loose the rings tip in the lands and break easier. Too tight and they stick. Both result in early ring failure and leakage. Ring end gap, usually over looked. With the ring placed alone in the sleeve, the gap should be .003. Also make sure the ring gaps are staggered when you install them. And another "cute" things about this engine: Make sure the connecting rods go back in the right way. The engine won't turn if they are backwards. I know ;-). That should be enough to either help or confuse you further. Hope this helps.
A couple of things to look at here not knowing how much engine rebuild experience you have. First I think is the condition of the sleeve. Is it worn out? Is there a ridge at the top? Are the pistons worn? There should be between .003 and .0015 clearance between the piston and sleeve. This is a general rule and you should be able to find exact specs if you need to. At any rate there can't be too much play between the two. Are the ring lands in good shape? Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I think .002 is recomended for clearance between the ring and piston. If they are too loose the rings tip in the lands and break easier. Too tight and they stick. Both result in early ring failure and leakage. Ring end gap, usually over looked. With the ring placed alone in the sleeve, the gap should be .003. Also make sure the ring gaps are staggered when you install them. And another "cute" things about this engine: Make sure the connecting rods go back in the right way. The engine won't turn if they are backwards. I know ;-). That should be enough to either help or confuse you further. Hope this helps.