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New Heater Pipes

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Basil

Basil

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Now that I have the brakes all but done on my EType, I am turning attention the the "behind the firewall" stuff such as the heater transfer pipes and the windshield wiper linkages that go there. My original heater transfer pipes are soft steel and, while there are no holes in them, there is a good deal of rust on the inside of the pipes. So, I decided to order a set of after-market stainless steel transfer pipes. They were not cheap, but I think it is a good investment given the general condition of my original pipes. With SS I should never have to worry about them rusting in the future.
 

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Exotexs said:
are these stainless pipes available for Jaguar saloons too or only for E-type?

what about blasting the original pipes to get them clean inside?

Ex
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Not sure, but my guess is they are available for any Jag model. I got them from Terry's Jaguar parts in Benton, IL.

I thought about cleaning the old one up, but decided I'd not have the car apart this far ever again, so I might as well spend the money and install some insurance.
 
ok, I'll check with Terry. I did check with SNG Barratt USA store and they show a set for the MK-2 in stainless too. I agree some things are worth the money.

I also thought about sending all pipes to Jet-Hot Coatings, where they take your parts, blast them inside and outside, then coat them with their "Sterling" coating, a mix of ceramic and silver used for jet engine exhausts, hot-rods, and other super-hot applications, but I am not sure about coolant.

Ex
 
Before installing, be sure the heater valve slides into the pipe. If using a new valve, the valve hole MUST be reamed out a bit - for the pipe to fit. As you remove the old pipes, make notes on the way they came out and which end went to what hole. If you have a '65 or later, you might remove the vaccuum pipe too, to examine it. They're usually OK, but sometimes they rust from the outside in.

It may help to remove the 3 wiper chrome and nuts, so the shafts and wiper bars can be pushed into the cowl, then out of the way. You may want the dash top off too.

As the repair manual says for everything else - instalation is the reverse of removal.

Phil.
 
PhilW said:
Before installing, be sure the heater valve slides into the pipe. If using a new valve, the valve hole MUST be reamed out a bit - for the pipe to fit. As you remove the old pipes, make notes on the way they came out and which end went to what hole. If you have a '65 or later, you might remove the vaccuum pipe too, to examine it. They're usually OK, but sometimes they rust from the outside in.

It may help to remove the 3 wiper chrome and nuts, so the shafts and wiper bars can be pushed into the cowl, then out of the way. You may want the dash top off too.

As the repair manual says for everything else - instalation is the reverse of removal.

Phil.
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Phil. I removed the old pipes 10 years ago! Thus the reinstall is the trial and error method. The two shorter pipes are not hard, but the long return pipe that runs along the bottom inside of the firewall is another story. I finally figured out how to get it in, but it took the better part of the day to do so! To say there isn't a lot of room in there to work would be a gross understatement. I was beginning to convince myself that they started with that pipe, then built the car around it!
 
Exotexs said:
ok, I'll check with Terry. I did check with SNG Barratt USA store and they show a set for the MK-2 in stainless too. I agree some things are worth the money.

I also thought about sending all pipes to Jet-Hot Coatings, where they take your parts, blast them inside and outside, then coat them with their "Sterling" coating, a mix of ceramic and silver used for jet engine exhausts, hot-rods, and other super-hot applications, but I am not sure about coolant.

Ex
Click to expand...

I'd think by the time you did all that you'd have enough in it to have bought the SS anyway.
 
They started with the wiper assy., then the pipes, then started building the body around them.

I've installed quite a few over the years and every time it's a challenge. Don't start pop riveting until they're all sticking out the holes. Also use aluminum rivets, not the stainless ones you got with the pipes. I know different metals are prone to corrosion, but I think the alu. rivets will last longer than you or I. The alu. rivets are "more forgiving" if you run into tight areas. More easily tapped into place and easier to drill out the mistakes.

The flexible wiper adjuster that's in there can be moved around a bit, it doesn't have to be dis-connected from the firewall.

Phil.
 
Exotexs said:
Basil said:
I'd think by the time you did all that you'd have enough in it to have bought the SS anyway.
Click to expand...
yes but if the SS pipes are not available for my S type, I have no other alternative but to try and restore the old. Already checked with SNG Barratt, they are not available.
Ex
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Try Terry's Jaguar www.Terrysjag.com
 
Ran across a suggestion once to take the pipe that delivers the hot water/coolant to the heater and wrap some pipe insulation around it to keep heat loss to a minimum. Haven't reached that point myself, but something to maybe try since it's out of sight an no one would notice the non original cover.
 
As far as your S type is concerned, the only source is from someone parting one out. They are relatively easy to get to - they're not inside the cowl. Try posting a classified. I'm almost certain that the MK2 and 420 are piped slightly differently (slightly differently???, hope there's no english prof. around) to the heater, so they must come from an "S". I don't think LHD, RHD, 3.4L, 3.8L, auto, stick will matter. They should all be the same.

There's always flexable copper pipe.

Phil.
 
Phil,

my heater pipes are not "rustedly" or "perforatedly", they would simply look better in Stainless.

But before I saw Basil's, I just wanted to clean the inside surface and detail them. I'm also thinking of coating the inside of the pipes with a fuel-tank coating if I find rust in them, then just paint the outside the same color as the body.

In a related job, I cleaned-blasted and painted my S type's Air Filter housing;

For years I have complained (to myself) about the original-but-so-ugly Austin Healey Engine Green Metallic color thst the factory used to paint these air-filter housings in the S type. Other people paint them in Silver which looks even worse.
After years of Transcendental Meditation on the subject, I came up with the Revelation to paint it the same color as the body, and here is the result. (just click on the link, I am having no luck posting pictures here anymore). Ok, don't throw any stones, I love the way it looks.

https://zurdo.fileave.com/air-filter-S-type-1.JPG

Ex
 
Well, I spent most of the day today installing - one - heater pipe. Of the three-pipe set, I managed to get the hardest one installed (the long one that runs along the bottom behind the fire wall! Geez, what an operation that was! Tomorrow I should be able to get the vacuum pipe (sits just above teh lower water pipe) and the other two water pipes installed.

I'm installing the original vacuum pipe since, while it looks similar to the water pipes, it doesn't carry liquid, so not rust issues.
 
Don't be surprised if you have to loosen one end of the pipe you have installed - that's why aluminum rivets should be used. That vacuum pipe was used late'65 through '70 and it's placement moved around slightly over those years. I usually place those 2 long pipes in the proper positions first before riveting them in. The last 2 pipes are easier.

As you're putting the pipes in, just imagine doing it on a moving car on the assembly line. Same goes with the wiper assy. Maybe the child labor laws were flexible over there in the '60's. Little arms and little hands are a plus for those jobs.

Phil.
 
Exotexs said:
and of course you didn't take pictures or video, right? It happens to all of us.

Ex
Click to expand...

Of course:
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