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New Engine Pre-lube BJ7

Griz

Jedi Hopeful
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Probably been addressed here before, but what is the best way to force oil through the galleries in a totally rebuilt engine before actually firing it up? I've assembled everything with assembly lube, so it's not going to be completely without lubrication when I fire it. Griz
 
Before everyone jumps in here with all kinds of methods and widgets and gadgets and dos and donts ask yourself this question .
When the car came of the production line what did they do ? Did they even use assembly lube back then ?

They turned the key fired it up and drove it away .
I just rebuilt my 64 BJ8 engine I used Bardahl as an assembly lube and primed the oil pump with it before I installed it .
As soon as you start cranking if the oil pump is primed it will pump oil all the way up to the rockers .
Chances are its going to crank several revolutions before it fires and runs . As soon as it starts check your oil pressure and go from there .
Personally I think theres way to much hype and BS about starting a rebuilt engine . JMHO .
 
Id say the same thing. If it was assembled in any recent memory, the assembly lube thats needed in the critical places e.g. crank bearings, tappets, is still there, and turning over primes the engine quickly.
 
Thanks guys...I don't necessarily disagree with you (I too have started newly rebuilt engines without priming the system first)...but let's just say I'd like to have both suspenders and a belt. Is there a simple method of charging the engine with oil prior to firing it up? Griz
 
Thanks guys...I don't necessarily disagree with you (I too have started newly rebuilt engines without priming the system first)...but let's just say I'd like to have both suspenders and a belt. Is there a simple method of charging the engine with oil prior to firing it up? Griz
Here is a pic of my setup for pre-lubing the engine before startup. The pic was taken at our local clubs monthly tech session at my garage. My engine is on our clubs Test Stand made especially for the Healey 6 engines. The Primer bottle was made by a local club member from parts from our local home improvement store. We put about 2-3 quarts of Joe Gibbs "breakin" oil in the tank and hook it to a air compressor and the other end's hose is clamped to the spin-on oil filter.

After the oil has reached the rocker shaft and is flowing out of ALL the oil holes in it then we consider the engine pre-oiled.
 
I turn my new engines over with the plugs out on the starter until oil pressure shows on the gauge. I know it's not as for sure as pressurizing the system but doesn't load the rods and crank with compression without oil pressure and that is something. It's really cheap and fast, too. If you used assembly lube it should be fine.
Chris...
 
The factory 'motored in' engines according to various videos. They ran on an electric motor for a few minutes on the assembly line.

Every cold startup with a standard oil filter is effectively a dry start as the oil drains back to the sump. This is a major reason why old engines wear out so quickly and something that is easily remedied with a modern filter.

Speaking of modern filters, the drainback valve can prevent the oil pump priming so if you have one, do the first few seconds of cranking with the filter loose so it can expel the air. More than a few seconds and oil will pour out.

Andy.
 
Here is a pic of my setup for pre-lubing the engine before startup. The pic was taken at our local clubs monthly tech session at my garage. My engine is on our clubs Test Stand made especially for the Healey 6 engines. The Primer bottle was made by a local club member from parts from our local home improvement store. We put about 2-3 quarts of Joe Gibbs "breakin" oil in the tank and hook it to a air compressor and the other end's hose is clamped to the spin-on oil filter.

After the oil has reached the rocker shaft and is flowing out of ALL the oil holes in it then we consider the engine pre-oiled.
For some reason the photos didn't attach themselves..again.
 

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I'm with Stuntflyr on this one, having just rebuilt my engine.

I also did the same with the Austin Mini engine I rebuilt over 40 years ago and I had no trouble with that, until I damaged the car:wall:when the front suspension collapsed. - ouch.

:cheers:

Bob
 
If you're doing new cams/lifters, then spinning it over with the coil unplugged (or whatever your method of preventing ignition) until you generate oil pressure on the gauge is a no-no.

Assuming all steps are a go; the timing's close, distributor in right, carbs set rich, choke functioning, etc., then fire it up and get the revs up around 2000 - 2100 quickly and hold it there for 15 - 20 minutes. You should see oil pressure almost immediately (I would, before I put it much over 1200 RPM...) and while one (1) person monitors the tach and holds the revs, another should scrutinize every joint looking for leaks and other undesireable things, like steam. Cooling system needs to be complete, including a fan (either engine mounted, 12VDC auxiliary, or a garage "box" fan) as a new, tight engine will get hot pretty quick.

While it's always good fun to listen to an engine on open headers, it's a lot easier to hear "funny noises" if the full system is fitted.

I suppose everybody has their own methods, so you can take little kernals of information and create what works best in your own case. I'm sure I've built well over a hundred (>100) engines, and I don't ever remember getting a phone call about one coming apart... :cheers:
 
Interesting. The first guys I ever heard the technique of spinning it over with the plugs out (removed from the head) from were MGB racers. Their idea was that the bearings of the rod and crank should have a charge of oil before introducing the compression loads.
On piston airplane engines that are old, antique, high performance types like the P-51's RR/Packard Merlin there are many operators that use pre-oilers for every start. That way the top end's cams and fingers are charged with oil before the first turn of the starter. These engines seem to last longer between top end overhauls and the replacement of cams and fingers is reduced as less wear is experienced. These pre-oilers are powered by electric pumps and are permanently mounted systems within the airplane.
Chris...
 
Interesting. The first guys I ever heard the technique of spinning it over with the plugs out (removed from the head) from were MGB racers. Their idea was that the bearings of the rod and crank should have a charge of oil before introducing the compression loads.
On piston airplane engines that are old, antique, high performance types like the P-51's RR/Packard Merlin there are many operators that use pre-oilers for every start. That way the top end's cams and fingers are charged with oil before the first turn of the starter. These engines seem to last longer between top end overhauls and the replacement of cams and fingers is reduced as less wear is experienced. These pre-oilers are powered by electric pumps and are permanently mounted systems within the airplane.
Chris...
I had made a pre-oiler using a Spridget starter motor, and a diesel fuel pump off a stationary engine (probably a prime mover surplus item from back in my offshore Gulf of Mexico days). I'd plumb it into the oil cooler lines, near as I can remember, for the charge, but don't recall where I had the supply tied in...

Darn thing was so heavy (steel plate construction, flex-coupling, etc.) that I finally left it behind during one of many moves. Plus, the shaft seal was blown, maybe because of the heavy oil, and really was a mess by the time the rockers were dribbling.

Aero and auto, so far apart, but so similar; we don't throw away every fastener when it's removed, but if an engine stalls, we can coast to the curb (well, so can an airplane, but not recommended...). I don't blame__or envy__you guys one bit for all the extra effort, as lives depend on it.
 
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