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New Clutch In 63 3000....engine stalls

bnw

Jedi Warrior
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New clutch in newly overhauled 3000 is causing engine to stall as soon as the pedal is applied. I believe it has to do with the through out which is not really a bearing, but more of a graphite friction device. I need for this to go away. Will more miles on the clutch be the solution? If so, how many?
 
It's not dragging. Engaging 1st is easy and things do not start to roll until the pedal is at least half way up. Thanks though
 
New clutch in newly overhauled 3000 is causing engine to stall as soon as the pedal is applied. I need for this to go away. Will more miles on the clutch be the solution?:

NO!!!,
It is characteristic of the Healey engine to stumble or stall when energising the clutch if the engine has been improperly tuned:
1]Idle speed too low
2] Carburetion improperly adjusted
3] Tining improperly set
----------------------------------Keoke
 
Or the engine's thrust washers are bad or badly installed.
 
I've set it up at 750. smooth as silk. raising it much more causes it to diesel when shut off. Lesser of two evils?
 
bnw said:
I've set it up at 750. smooth as silk. raising it much more causes it to diesel when shut off. Lesser of two evils?

Start the engine, get it warmed up till it's running smoothly, then have someone work the clutch while you watch the crankshaft pulley. I don't know the spec--it would be for 'crankshaft end float' or something similar--but I don't think the pulley/crankshaft should move more than a smidgen when the clutch pedal is pushed in. If it moves a lot--to where the fan belt seems to bend--it's an issue with the thrust washers, as Michael suggested.

750rpm is a good all-around idle speed--raising it much more than that is just masking the problem, until something gives up the ghost.

Just saw your last post--I'd still confirm by observing the pulley when the clutch is being operated. Most Healeys will have a few RPM drop when the clutch is pressed.
 
recommendations, please.:

Idle speed? 1] using car Tach:1000RPM
-----------2] accurate non car Tach 800RPM
Timing? Stroboscopic: @ 15 degrees BTDC
Carbs: just a tad lean

-----------------------------FWIW--Keoke
 
The only other thing I can think of is that the throwout bearing is the wrong size and is binding on the input shaft when the clutch is engaging but I still fear it is the thrust washers.

I had a very confounding time when I first rebuilt the MGA engine in my Courier. After disassuembling the engine I measured the old thrust washers and ordered a new set. During assembly whenever I torqued down on the main cap the crankshaft would begin to bind up. Finally I looked at the old thrust washers and found that the top and bottom halves were of slightly different thicknesses: The block had been machined to recieve washers of slightly greater thickness which was the one from which I took my measurement and torquing down the mains was causing the binding. I shaved the bottom half down a couple of thousands and eventually everything came together nicely. We can never assume anything!
 
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