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New brake rotor or get the old ones turned??

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J

Jerry

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The rotors on the TR3A that I am working on look to be fairly new based on a micrometer (Just over 0.50), but they are rusty from sitting for 20 years. I saw that Centric makes a replacement for $24, but I am inclined to resurface the old ones. Do you have any opinions?

Jerry
 
If the rusty ones are originals I'd have them turned. These cheaper rotors of now a days (mostly made in China) have many problems. They seem to warp easier and don't have as much meat on them. At lease for modern cars if they warp or get heavily grooved there is not enough metal if you have them turned to keep them in specks.
 
How rusty? If it's just light surface rust, I'd use them as-is. The rust will go away the first time you step on the pedal.

The new rotors I bought for my TR3A a few years back were the same thickness as original; but were badly out of balance out of the box. I went ahead and balanced one and put it on the car, but it not only warped but went back out of balance in just a year or so.
 
Have the originals turned. Just make sure it's a shop with modern equipment. If anyway possible, stay away from replacements, as said before, their made in china and the metal is of a very poor quality. I personally would find a used set if mine were to bad and have them cut, just to get the higher quality steel. If it's made in India or China, I don't buy it, if any way possible. JMHO PJ
 
Mine had the originals. Rusty after sitting 15+ years. When the local brake guys looked at them the guy who does the work said they don't need anything, go and drive. Old guy agreed but had him turn to clean, probably only to make me feel better. Sadly, their business did not survive our flood of 08.
 
Bit of Scotchbrite, brake parts spray and some elbow grease, you will have clean rotors. I'd have them turned only if the surface is wavy or grooved.
 
The rotors on my 1958 TR3A are still the original ones when I bought it new in 1958. The TR was a basket case at 80,300 miles so it sat in my garage for 15 years from 1972 to 1987. Then I restored it from 1987 to 1990. My neighbour who owns a 10" diameter lathe skimmed them about 0.005" total from both faces of each rotor to take off the rust and the waviness. He turned them to 0.495" thick.

They have been on for the last 23 years with no issues during another 110,000 miles of safe TR driving (and stopping too).
 
It really depends on the condition of the surface. If they're pitted, or with groves from caught rocks, etc, you should replace, if they're just worn, have them checked for flatness and reuse them. I ended up with new rotors on my project because the dust guards behind my rotors had caught a lot of rocks over the years and there were very deep groves carved into the backs of the rotors.
 
All,
I've heard the various, and numerous, comments about 'new' rotors. I've never had a problem with replacement rotors at all. No balancing issues, warping or other. I'm on my 7th TR3 restoration. Maybe I've just gotten lucky. Pat
 
New rotors I have purchased of late have all needed to be balanced AND turned to be use able.
I will take a nice original any time.NEVER IMHO should any one install "new" rotors with out getting them checked
by a pro.
MD
 
Have any of you who received unbalanced rotors complained to the seller? Seems to me that this is a solveable problem, if the vendors are made aware of the quality issues. I don't think buyers should ever need to have have new parts "checked by a pro" before putting them to use...
 
In my case, the rotors had been on my shelf for almost 10 years. Bought them on sale at the combined VTR/Summer Party event against future need. So no, I didn't bother complaining to the vendor (who is located in the UK). Next time I'll buy from someone closer to home even if the price is higher.
 
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