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negative camber wishbones...

Nunyas

Yoda
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Hey all,

Instead of digging up an old thread on my enjoyment of the hendling of my 'B, I thought I'd start a new one specifically concerning after market suspension parts.

As I've said before in previous posts, I'd like to lower my car before changing anything else on the suspension. However, a couple of people have noted that RB cars may end up with positive camber when lowered. This sounds kind of odd to me considering the upper and lower wishbones are unequal in length. The upper bones are shorter than the lower. Assuming at stock height that they are both parallel to the ground, this would mean that any change in suspension geometry would result in slight negative camber, because the shorter wishbones would have to travel a greater distance in it's arc of movement to cover the same vertical travel of the longer wishbone. The exception to this is if the wishbones are not parallel to each other and the ground at stock height.

Anyways, the benefits of having negative camber are quoted as having "improved turn-in response". The negative camber lower wishbones offered by Moss, BitVik, etc. are somewhat appealing. However, one thing bothers me about them. That is the fact that they are fixed. I'm sure they improve turn-in response greatly, but at what cost for normal tire wear?

From reading the website British Automotive's aticle ( https://www.mgbmga.com/tech/mgb14a.htm ) on lowering the front suspension of an MGB, they make a lot of suggestions to enhancing suspension and ways for correcting undesireable side effects of modifying the suspension. One of their suggestions is to use "lowered stub-axle assemblies" in order to maintain correct suspension travel. However, I've never seen one of these items for sale.

I have, however, found a place that sells lowered lower wishbones with adjustable camber ( https://www.classicconversionseng.com/a-arms.htm ). This particular product seems even more interesting to me than the standard issue negative camber lower wishbone. It would potentially allow me to kill two birds with one stone. My only worry regarding these particular wishbones is with durability. They don't seem to have very much information on these wishbones other than what they're supposed to do. So, I'd like to ask if anyone here has these on their car and how often do they drive the car with them?

Finally, British Automotive show's a diagram of the Ron Hopkinson's front telescopic shock setup. This seems to be the best shock only conversion setup that I've seen so far. It places the shock between the wishbones and not off to one side. This seems like an interesting modification, but I've never heard from anyone that utilized it. Certianly in my reading of this board, more than enough people have voice their opinions on the stock shock setup and how versitile it is. Does anyone here run a coil over kit? or use a Ron Hopkinson front shock conversion kit? I'm curious to how it compares to a car with good stock shocks or stock shocks with "heavy duty" valving.

Thanks for any opinions and added insight into this topic.
 
have the moss negative camber arm on my lowered RB B (2+") ... drive it agressivly..and race it...no affect on tire wear at all..

I wouldnt bother with the negative arms..unless you want to fix something...

lower the car....get an alignment check...see where you are..

I dont think you need to worry about it..standard tires for these cars are cheap ($40 for H-rated summer tires)

Do one mod at a time..lower the car...front and back...then worry about the next change...

Car ran fine with and without the negative arms..I notice the change when I am racing..on the street..not so much


Paul
 
I added the longer lower wishbones with comp frond springs, comp valving for the shock absorbers and a heaver front swaybar, and urithane bushings, Loved the results, and not all that difficult to do. Gopher it!
 
I think I found a place that'll lower the front swivel axels and inch. It looks like he requires you to send him a set of swivel axels to do it to though. Anyone familiar with "David Headley" of Fab-Tek? There's even a link to an interesting artical that he's written called Grip-Tech that covers a bunch of stuff on suspension geometry and the effects that different geometries can cause. An interesting read.
 
David Headly is awesome...Have talked with him...he knows his stuff..most of his stuff is more geared for the track than the street. Lowering the spindles is better than using springs to lower the car..but less reversible ...which is why I went with springs...2" Moss lowered springs...Lowered springs and blocks in the rear. Simple..cheap...reversible. And it works...After a few autocross seasons with this setup...I'll confirm it works.

Paul
 
just curious, do you know what he does to lower the stub axel? does he re-man the unit to locate the stub-axel 1" higher on the assembly, or does he relocate the lower trunion 1" lower? I'm kind of curious, because one method would change the geometry a bit while the other wouldn't.
 
not sure..give him a call..he will give you lots of information on what he does...knows his stuff

FWIW...I had a chance to go down the road you are looking at myself...and went the easy way (springs/blocks) to lower the car..and couldn't be happier with the result...with or without lower a-arms.. lowering it is great...and not a lot of work.. If your lower arms are in good shape..I would, personally, leave well enough alone. Just my 2 cents worth.

Unless I was a cut-throat, yearning for every 1/10 of a second, hard core racer...I wouldn't spend the $ on a hard core set up that Headly does. sometimes good enough is....good enough. Using springs/blocks to lower the car is better than it at stock height...for sure.. lowering it the better way (dropped spindles...or using a CB lower sub-frame is even better) is a lot more work...and not worth it to me.. as always..your mileage may vary..

Paul
 
FWIW : I did the springs and the negative camber arms. My original arms were shot completely, had to get them off with a sawzall. New stock arms vs negative camber were about the same price. I opted for the - camber arms as I knew that a little - camber on 1500 spits (raised as well) seemed to help improve the handling. As for tire wear, I'm not that concerned about it as I don't really put that many miles on the car.
 
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