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I just purchased this car in really good cond. except the engine. It has 94K miles, V-6, and a hesitation in the throttle when it is in overdrive when you try to accelerate just a little. When going up a bridge, the whole car shakes, at full throttle it has a surging going on then it will pull on through it and get going. I changed the fuel filter and no change. It acts like it is too lean. I checked it for codes and it is clear. Any suggestions ?
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Need help !! 2000 S type
- Thread starter KevinB
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D
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Descriptions can be difficult to decipher, but, "the whole car shakes" "when going up a bridge".
Ignition can do that.
Plug wires breaking down, cap, plugs themselves.
Under load.
Like, going up a bridge.
Getting dark out.
Fire it up in the driveway when it's dark, bonnet up, get out and look for zaps.
If it's distributorless, can be the module or coil pack breaking down.
Ignition can do that.
Plug wires breaking down, cap, plugs themselves.
Under load.
Like, going up a bridge.
Getting dark out.
Fire it up in the driveway when it's dark, bonnet up, get out and look for zaps.
If it's distributorless, can be the module or coil pack breaking down.
jessebogan
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How about the tranny? You should check for trans codes as well. How is the fluid? Looks good, smells good? If not a trans service might be in order. Does it even have a dipstick for the trans? If not, refilling is a pain, and takes special tools.
It doesn't have plug wires, the coils bolt directly to the valve cover and the plugs look good. I have already ordered a plennum gasket to change the plugs anyway. I'm leaning toward o2 sensors causing it to run lean without setting a code.The trans shifts fine and seems to be working great, there is not any slippige going on.I have not checked the fluid yet, I will do that.I hope it has a dipstick ! Thank you
D
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Okay, with individual coil packs, a tad harder to determine.
Still can be a coil pack breaking down.
I have this old Snap-On hand-held spark tester, all you need to do is get the end close to the spark source and see what it's doing.
You adjust the wheel to where the light stops (kind of like a "squelch" knob).
If I was doing it, I would have someone load it up a bit in gear and check, comparing to idle readings.
Usually, if an O2 is bad, it will read out-of-spec and trigger a code (non-Jag).
You said the plugs look good.
Does that mean porcelain color at tip?
If they're tan, probably not lean.
If they are pearly white, with maybe splash spots, could be lean.
Your original post sure looks like ignition breakdown.
Under load, you can push through (actually, I would bet you are getting to a "less load" condition).
A vacuum gauge would tell you. Many the time I stuck my 4" gauge under the wiper blade, and took a car out for a drive.
You can see "load" and where it breaks down.
Still can be a coil pack breaking down.
I have this old Snap-On hand-held spark tester, all you need to do is get the end close to the spark source and see what it's doing.
You adjust the wheel to where the light stops (kind of like a "squelch" knob).
If I was doing it, I would have someone load it up a bit in gear and check, comparing to idle readings.
Usually, if an O2 is bad, it will read out-of-spec and trigger a code (non-Jag).
You said the plugs look good.
Does that mean porcelain color at tip?
If they're tan, probably not lean.
If they are pearly white, with maybe splash spots, could be lean.
Your original post sure looks like ignition breakdown.
Under load, you can push through (actually, I would bet you are getting to a "less load" condition).
A vacuum gauge would tell you. Many the time I stuck my 4" gauge under the wiper blade, and took a car out for a drive.
You can see "load" and where it breaks down.
I didn't have to run any tests on it. I took it on a 2 hour road trip and it finally set a code, Cyl 5 misfire. I don't have a book on it yet so i'm not sure which is # 5 cyl. I'm guessing it is set up like Chevy and it is the 3rd back from the front on the drivers side. Does anyone know if that is correct? The trans does not have a dipstick so I can't check the fluid in it. What tools are needed to fill the trans after you change the filter? Thanks for the help.
D
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Could be a plug or the individual coil pack.
Might be mechanical, but you'd generally feel that and hear it in the tailpipe at idle.
That a Ford V-6?
Generally, Ford was RF to RR, then LF to LR, but you might look at the intake runner.
Some cars are marked.
Might be mechanical, but you'd generally feel that and hear it in the tailpipe at idle.
That a Ford V-6?
Generally, Ford was RF to RR, then LF to LR, but you might look at the intake runner.
Some cars are marked.
I have already checked the intake runner for marks, no luck with that. It has a perfect idle,no miss at all. I will unplug one coil pack and see which cyl it is when it sets a code, Maybe that will work. If it is on the pass side bank, the plennum has so be removed. If I have to do that I will change all three coils there to be safe. The local parts house here in town has the coils in stock which tells me that they apparantly have a problem with breaking down and going bad. The Ford dealer here in town just got 6 coils for a 2000 v-6 from NAPA. That is 2 hints that it is the coils.I will call them Monday and see if I can see why they changed them and if it fixed it (if they will help people on the phone). I will post my findings.
That coil pack fixed it, It runs great now !! I still have one problem, about 30 miles after it set the check engine code, the ABS light and the traction control light along with a message, Traction control malfunction. I didn't have my scanner with me to clear the engine code when it came on so, I'm sure they are all related. How can you clear that without taking it in to the dealer and where can I get a service manual at ? Thanks for all the help, it saved me a bunch !