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need advice on motor oil

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achtungeveryone

Jedi Hopeful
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the current post on castrol oil for classics has me considering going to the synthetic. The 2 previous owners ran 10w40 so I did as well. I don't know the mileage since my odometer has not worked since I've owned it. But previous reports has it just over 100,000. I think it may be wise to switch to 20w50 just due to mileage on engine. My oil pressure is pretty good and I guess it would increase a little if I switch, which could be a good thing as long as my seals can take it. It is sort of a serious thing for me to consider since it would not be fun if the switch proved detrimental to the operation of the car. The fact is this motor ain't getting any younger...Should I switch to 20W50?

Thanks for any ideas!
p.s. the engine has a token oil leak...just enough to be british.
 
What brand of oil you should use and what weight it should be and what type, (chemical composition), it should be is like asking a group of kids, what is your favorite ice cream? Your going to get a multitude of answers along with a multitude of reasons. I look at it this way, you should never go wrong using what the manufacture recommended. On MG engines it's 20/50. I agree with the use of oils with a high degree of zink in it on newly rebuilt engines. Even though it's preferable, I disagree that you "HAVE" to use oils with a high degree of zink in it on engines with over a couple thousand miles on them. Even though I've built many engines over the years, I've never had an engine go bad due to oil malfunction by using the manufactures recommendations. JMHO. PJ
 
I'll throw another option into the mix that I've gotten great feedback on by many mechanics, Lucas Oil Stabiliizer.
 
I just saw that advertised, but can't remember where.

I wonder if it works as well as the Lucas Voltage Stabilizer on the back of the speedometers?
 
I think you should continue with the oil that brought you the 100+k miles. Synthetics are known to leak when first use is with seals are well used. OEM front and rear seals are not made for the synthetic oils and are more likely to leak than ones made for that specific use. Besides, there is nothing wrong with the lubricating abilities with the non synthetic oils. When I think about synthetic oil advantage, I think it was touted as having a much longer life because the "sheer" factors were superior to non syn oil. I beleive this is true; but, how long do you let the oil go before you change...3k or 2.5k? So what is a good grade of oil? HD 20-50 of most name brands should be just fine. Then you can add any snake oil additive that strikes your fancy.
 
If your oil stays fairly clean, if your pressures are acceptable and if the oil is "oily", I'd stay with what you've been using.
 
You don't say where you live but local temps can be a factor in your decision.

I often drive in 100+ heat and seldom in anything approaching freezing so 20W50 makes sense for me.
 
I visit the Volvo dealer in town for inspections. Every time I visit there is a new gummed, varnished piston sitting on one of the service advisor's desks.

They've been selling Lucas Oil Stabilizer for a little over two years now.

Saw an unfavorable report on Lucas Oil Stabilizer on a website awhile back. Can't remember who right now(not even a cuppa joe in me yet), might have been Bob's Oil site...


Reminds me of the marketing that STP was doing in the 60's.
 
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