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T

Tinster

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The BCF Triumph experts have examined and driven
my non-mechanically inclined owner restored 69TR6.

A defective dizzy rotor tore up my dizzy cap so I
need to order a few more replacements. The coil (5th)
not installed correctly by Dale.

It appears my fuel lines still contain a Pedro-ized bit
I was not aware.

Can someone please post a photo of where the primary
fuel line splits into two smaller lines for the twin
carbs? I need to fabricate this bit of fuel line.

thanks,

dale
 
Dale, that's not a long list after such an expert examination!
 
This should help - very basic
 

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I think Dale's waiting for someone to go out and take a pic of their own setup.

T.
 
NutmegCT said:
I think Dale's waiting for someone to go out and take a pic of their own setup.

T.
Click to expand...

Yup, I need a photo. My car has the "tee" joint in the diagram.
I am looking for a photo of a "Y" joint with no 90* bend at the joint.

thanks.

dale
 
Dale - look closely at the diagram above...if you redo yours so it looks like that, you won't see fuel issues anymore....guys, he's got a small air bubble in his fuel filter & his "T" runs directly into the front carb & then to the rear....not like in the photo....& he doesn't have the 'balance' piping (#46 & its pieces).
 
dale, No promises, but I might still have my old one floating around. I'll check and you can have it.
 
swift6 said:
Is his more like #45 or #46? Its either or, not both.
Click to expand...

<span style="color: #CC0000">Here is my setup. I don't quite grasp how mine is
different from the diagram. I fully understand the front carb is
getting fuel faster than the rear carb because of the 90* bend
thru the Tee.. So what needs to be changed?

Thanks,

d</span>

CarbTee.jpg
 
OK - someone help me out here ... I've got a small "bubble" of air in my (single solitary) in-line fuel filter too.

Is that not correct? What problem does it cause? Is it really something to worry about?

I've seen that "bubble" there for over a year, with nary a problem.

Thanks.
Tom
 
Ya Know,Tom, I've been thinking about that bubble for
the past coupla hours. I was getting ready to take the
filter housing out and install a new one. I have a spare!!
But I did that last week. The housing and filter in my photo
are not even one week old.

So I'm thinking, my filter housing was 100% filled with air
after I installed it. Then the fuel pump then filled it
with gasoline except for that tiny bubble.

I'm thinking if I swapped it out, I'd just get another small bubble.

Ya got me!! I know just about nothing about auto mechanics.

dale
 
I don't think the bubble is anything to really worry about, but it would probably eliminate itself if you re-aligned the filter so that the outlet was a tad higher than the inlet! Dale, it looks like there is a kink in the copper tube between the filter and just before the "T"! Can'tell how severe from the picture, but that might be restricting the fuel flow a bit!!!
 
The bubble occurs because the fuel wets the filter paper and will no longer allow air to pass. You can be sure that the inside of the filter paper is completely full of gas, and no air.

The only problem is that the only part that can collect dirt is the part of the filter paper that touches the liquid fuel on the outside.
 
Tinster said:
I fully understand the front carb is
getting fuel faster than the rear carb because of the 90* bend
thru the Tee.. So what needs to be changed?
Click to expand...
Dale What makes you think that the front carb is getting fuel faster than the rear??? Racing cars with dual carbs are hooked up the same way with a 90 degree angles.

In any case, if there really is some reason that say the from carb is richer than the rear, the difference is more likely in the adjustment of the carb than in the fuel line.
 
Ok, here's an thought. It seems to me that one of the problems is the different lengths of the various connections. From what I see in the picture you provided, try this:

Take out the T fitting and re-orient it so that the filter attaches to the "tail" of the T. Then run equal lengths of tubing from the "arms" of the T to the carbs. Let me see if I can create a letter drawing of this:

Carb <-------> T <-------> Carb
/
/
/
FILTER
/
/
/
PUMP

Let's see if that comes through intelligibly! :smile:
 
Almost! LoL But close enough to make sense I hope.
 
The floats and the needle valves control the fuel flow into the carbs. It won't matter where the "T" is once both float bowls are full on each carburettor. The fuel pump can provide more capacity than the engine needs which is why each carb has a valve controlled by a float in the bowl. Centering the "T" won't change anything, but if it makes you rest easier then go for it.

Don't expect to ever see the fuel filter completely full. There will always be some air in there. That's not the problem. As long as fuel is flowing through it, you are good to go.

If the rear carb is not getting as much fuel, then there is either a restriction in the line after the "T" or there is an issue with the valve and/or float on one of the carbs, it could be either. If the one carbs float is allowing too much fuel in it can flood. Too little it will starve.

Electric fuel pumps without pressure regulators can sink the floats causing flooding. If one of the needles is sticking, it could pe preventing as much fuel getting into the float bowl. Same thing with Grose Jets, I've had them stick more than once. Usually in the open position though causing flooding not starving. Either way, a whack on that side of the carb body with a screwdriver handle usually unsticks the needle valve.
 
Forget about the bubble...it doesn't mean anything. As <span style="font-weight: bold">bugimike </span>mentioned, there appears to be a slight kink in the tube before the tee. That would be the only area of concern, and that probably doesn't mean anything either.

What exactly do you think is wrong with the fuel lines??? If they ain't leaking, and they supply fuel to the carbs, that is there only function. Leave it alone. If you're having problems with the way the car is running, then post what the problems are. Why do you keep looking for stuff to fix?? Are you bored??

And what's this about the 5th coil?? Coils should last for almost an eternity. I've got one one my TR3 that's over forty years old. Either you keep putting in the wrong ones, or something else is wrong. I know you said you installed it wrong, but there is only two ways to install the coil. If you install it backwards, then you will lose a couple of thousand volts, but the engine will still run. I had a car running with a coil installed backwards for several years before I discovered it, switched it over and didn't notice any difference. The bad run of rotors we know about. Everyone has suffered from that problem.

And one more thing, how come there isn't any engine coolant running through the manifold?? Is that a hot weather modification??
 
Art- engine shutdown problem AT LAST, today diagnosed
as vapor lock because my carbs have no return pipes
and no heat shields.

I need to order this piece from moss and wrap my exhaust
manifold pipes.

dale
 
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