Need a headlamp upgrade? Check this out --

[Moseso]

Bosch H4s cheap!
I stumbled across this yesterday. It's a great price on what may be the most modern 7" round lamp available. I know they don't say Lucas on 'em, but they REALLY light up the road.

No financial interest, etc. etc. The Bus Depot has helped me keep my Volksys running for years. Nice folks.

 

[DNK]

Don't know if I'm thrilled on the glass pattern.

 

[swift6]

Still prefer the Cibie's.

 

[DNK]

Ditto

 

[sail]

Sure at 3 times the price. I am getting a pair, definite upgrade frome one Lucas and one General Electric. Thanks Moseso.

 

[HerronScott]

What's interesting is the back of the Bosch ones look exactly like the H4 headlights that I got from JCWhitney for my TR4A back in the early 80's. Same offroad rating too, but I never had any issues getting the car inspected.

Scott

 

[vivdownunder]

Worth putting in headlight relays for these due to the extra current draw through the ancient TR wiring.

With plus 50 bulbs, the difference in night driving with H4's over the original headlamps is amazing. And no more dropping to one candle power when you stop at the lights and the generator is giving nothing.

Regards,

Viv.

 

[pjsmetana]

"Note: Like most H4 headlights, these are U.S. D.O.T. approved for "motorcycle" or "off road" use only"

Wonder why that is...

 

[TRMark]

Don't know if I'm thrilled on the glass pattern.

The latest issue, June 2010, of Rod & Custom has an article on attaching earlier lens to H4 reflector. Requires cutting off and reattaching the lens. Seems a bit extreme to me, but rodders do all kinds of over the top stuff.

 

[HerronScott]

"Note: Like most H4 headlights, these are U.S. D.O.T. approved for "motorcycle" or "off road" use only"

Wonder why that is...

Back when I did mine in the early 80s I understood it to be because sealed headlamps were required for DOT on-road approval. I think the concern was moisture in the reflector area and the only DOT approved ones with a replaceable H4 bulb at that time still had a sealed reflector area (might have been Cibie or perhaps Hella but they were much more expensive than the ones I installed).

I'm not sure what the reason would be today as I didn't think that area was sealed once car manufacturers started moving toward custom headlamps with replaceable bulbs.

Scott

 

[TR3driver]

"Note: Like most H4 headlights, these are U.S. D.O.T. approved for "motorcycle" or "off road" use only"

Wonder why that is...

Probably due to the requirement for "sealed beam" construction. "Back when", headlight reflectors were silvered glass. If the silver was exposed to air, it would turn dark over time and render the lamp nearly useless. So one of the earliest US 'safety' requirements was that the reflector be sealed against air and replaceable without altering the aim. This requirement is also why our Triumphs had to have different headlights for delivery in the US.

There also may be issues with the beam pattern of the "non-approved" lamps not meeting DOT requirements. I don't recall all the details offhand, but one of them was that "E-code" (European standard) lamps throw extra light off to the right and above, to help illuminate roadsigns on the side of the road. The US DOT feels that such light may blind drivers waiting at a crossroad (or driveway) and so US-spec lamps are not allowed to throw as much light into that area (on low beam of course).

You can see the difference in beam pattern here:

The actual state of the regulations now as they apply to our old cars is murky (and I have no desire to reopen the debate on that point). Here in CA, I'm pretty sure it is technically illegal to retrofit non-sealed lamps to a car that was originally required to have them. But I've been running non-sealed (and higher power) for over 30 years, and it has never been even mentioned as an issue to me by law enforcement.

 

[TR3driver]

the only DOT approved ones with a replaceable H4 bulb at that time still had a sealed reflector area (might have been Cibie or perhaps Hella but they were much more expensive than the ones I installed).

Cibie "Bobie" or something like that. Nearly twice the price of the non-sealed ones, and the extra layer of glass between the bulb and lens actually reduced light output slightly. They didn't stay on the market for long, although many dealers had a set on the shelf even after they were no longer available from Cibie.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]
I'm not sure what the reason would be today as I didn't think that area was sealed once car manufacturers started moving toward custom headlamps with replaceable bulbs.[/QUOTE]It's not, but to at least some extent, we are required to follow the standards that applied to our cars when they were new rather than the standards applied to new cars today. That's likely a Good Thing overall, as I'd hate to have to try to meet modern safety (or emission) requirements with a Triumph!

 

[swift6]

Sure at 3 times the price.

and worth every penny... if you ever drive at night.

 

[TR3driver]

Worth putting in headlight relays for these due to the extra current draw through the ancient TR wiring.

IMO relays are a worthwhile modification even without using higher power bulbs. TS13571L is also getting new connectors inside the buckets, as I've discovered that the connector on my right lamp is losing almost a full volt inside that connector!

These bulbs are rather sensitive to supply voltage, so one volt can make as much as 30% difference in light output.

After some deliberation, I'm going with two relays mounted to the back of each headlight bucket, where they will be more-or-less hidden from view but still easily accessible (by pulling the bucket). I'm reusing the original wires, except for a new purple wire to take power to the relays from the new Lucas fuse block on the firewall. Wouldn't pass concours inspection (which isn't an issue for me anyway) but looks reasonably stock to a casual observer. And failure of any given relay or fuse can only put out one headlight, so no more "sudden darkness" on mountain roads!

 

[trfourtune]

FYI,
as far as HALOGEN lights go, I have found (based on Daniel stern lighting consultant-he has lighting analysis data to back it up)) the best to be:

1. marchal h4 flat glass (no longer available-but daniel has a few-VERY EXPENSIVE!-I know because i have a pair)
2. Cibie (pronounced C-B-A)
3. Hella
4. Bosch
5. other halogens (per me-imho)
6. sealed beam (per me-imho)
7. original 6 volt vw lights (per me-imho)
8. candles (although these may be better than old vw 6 volt lights-imho)

criteria for best street lighting is complex and not just about brightness. Some lights have a big difference in where the hot spot is between high and low beam (bad). Some lights do not have a sharp cut off on low beam (poor). "Blue" lights cause a lot of glare and make it hard for your eyes to detect things on the side of the road (like deer). Some have a narrow beam pattern (poor).

Headlights are not offroad flood lights so biggest and brightest is not the whole picture.

Rob

 

[Geo Hahn]

...I'm going with two relays mounted to the back of each headlight bucket, where they will be more-or-less hidden from view but still easily accessible (by pulling the bucket)...

An alternate location... on the TR4 I placed the relays by the connector that sits atop the radiator shroud. Its all original wiring except for a jumper or two and that blue wire that is making its way back along the passenger harness to power.

The bucket location is well-hidden on a TR3 but the TR4 engine compartment is more open so it didn't seem worth trying to hide anything. I enjoy originality to a point but I could feel the headlamp switch getting warm.

 

[Hatman]

After some deliberation, I'm going with two relays mounted to the back of each headlight bucket, where they will be more-or-less hidden from view but still easily accessible (by pulling the bucket). I'm reusing the original wires, except for a new purple wire to take power to the relays from the new Lucas fuse block on the firewall. Wouldn't pass concours inspection (which isn't an issue for me anyway) but looks reasonably stock to a casual observer. And failure of any given relay or fuse can only put out one headlight, so no more "sudden darkness" on mountain roads!

Please post up photos of this project when you tackle it -- I have the same thing facing me shortly.

 

[swift6]

criteria for best street lighting is complex and not just about brightness.

Headlights are not offroad flood lights so biggest and brightest is not the whole picture.

What I like about the Cibie's are the light pattern. There are no hotspots, just a wide, very even and bright, flood of light with a very sharp cutoff. The high beam pattern maintains the even flood of light up close, but also throws quite a bit more light down the road.

 

[RJS]

Hey,

What's everyone's opinions on headlight relay kits? I have seen a kit from one of the big three for as low as $20 and another for $135. And yet another British wiring specialist has one for $90. Any ideas?

Also, can relays be installed as PNP or do I need to cut into the original harness?

Thanks

Bob

 

[Geo Hahn]

Photo of mine is above. I paid about $3 for the 2 relays, did not make any cut into the original harness. I picked up a used TR4 harness a few years back (ever wonder who buys those things?) so I had a good supply of correct color wires and connectors.

I did not use two relays for each headlamp but rather one relay for high beams and another for low beams. No idea if that is a good idea but it works and solved my immediate problem.