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Nash Metroplitan trans swap?

Harold: I have a book now and a color wiring diagram coming soon. The book shows designations that suggest there should be a way to figure out what tab is what. I'll keep trying.

TOC, you are living the life I should have led when I was younger! (Though I did single hand my trimaran across the Pacific as part of my 'Bucket List'.) Antarctica is so mysterious, forboding and truth be told...ANATHEMA TO ANY FORM OF HUMAN LIFE! Good ONYA! Best wishes and GodSpeed.

Thom
 
one other point of interest--the ignition switch/light switch on the Met is the same as the old Bugeye---so the wiring diagram you see shows the
original wiring for both Met and bugeye--sometime in the past 20 years or so, the law changed such that the parking lights have to come on with the
headlights--the new wiring looms (at least from Metpitstop) should show this----take your multimeter continuity--and check the switch--what happens
when you move the switch--then you will see how it has to be wired up--
 
Thanks, Harold. I think my switch only has 4 tabs and the new ones have 5, yes? I'll take a pic today and will check. Even if PO put in a NOS switch with 4 tabs, I can jump the parking lights to the headlights to make it legal.

Thom
 
The original switches from the factory had 5 terminals--the new ones that are supplied by the vendors have 4--the PROPER wiring diagram/schematic shows
the original switch wiring--use your multi-meter and you can see what the tabs do--the wiring diagram in the manual supplied from MetPitstop is the
correct one for the Met--google sometimes shows wiring diagrams/schematics for various cars which looks like someone took a crayon and colored
the wires. These are useless--the panel on the bottom right of the diagram show the color codes.
 
Good info, thx. I'd already ordered a color diagram from 'Prospero's Garage'.....hope it's a good one. Meanwhile I'll check cont.
Thom
 
You must have an original shop manual. I have the same diagram from my copy of a copy...of a copy.
Best one yet, thx.

Thom
 
The pic I sent is from a later manual--the original manual "chart" was sort of a "flow" chart--and couldn't see the big picture--not user friendly!!
So I use the pic like the one I sent you--
 
Harold, now I'm a little (more) confused. You said the original chart was sort of a 'flow' chart, but I'm comparing your (very clean) copy with my book's and even another nice copy sent by someone yesterday.

I don't see any difference between the three, except yours is nice and crisp. Am I missing something?

Thx.

Thom
 
The chart/diagran that I have an issure with is the one from Prosper's garage--too muddled with colors--the one I sent you--and perhaps another copy is the one to use--clean and detailed,
so you can follow the wiring and color codes
 
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This is the "flow" chart in the original mantenance manuel--totally useless--I likened it to a chart describing the water piping in a 2 story house--the chart I sent you came from the
latest mantenance manual--which has been upgraded a lot from the original one that came with the Metros in 1954/55--this pic may not be here ??
I can't pull it up--I have no idea why--maybe it's just my lack of tech skills
 

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this is better--try this----really hard to read---not as user friendly as having the numbered wires and color codes--
 

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Any low starter mount early transmission used on a 1500 engine should be usable as a transplant as long as you don't mind going to a floor shift - I believe they lost the extra gear so they could work a column shift on those cars. There were slight differences in the bolt patterns of the rear engine plate, so it is possible you might need the rear plate off an engine that was used with the trans you buy so that the starter mounts in the right place, but that's all pretty easy.

Get an MG or Austin replacement transmission so you can sit them side by side and compare with the Metro. It is entirely possible that the rear shaft is the same in them, in which case removing the rear alloy tailshaft housing and bolting it on the MG trans may be easy (sliding spline joint on all the early cars). You would need to fit a longer shift lever. Riley 1.5 hd a somewhat longer one, but the Cambridge probably is the one you want to look at (and welding a section into the stock MG/Austin will also work.)
 
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