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My elaborate scheme has me flumoxed

TR6BILL

Luke Skywalker
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In setting up my GoodParts adjustable trailing arm brackets, I have devised an elaborate system to check my toe-in because as some of you know, I foolishly let all my bracket shims fall to the floor when I took the TA's apart. So, what I have done is install and torque the new brackets, with no shims behind them (things should be really askew, right?), then with no axles or springs or shocks installed, I leveled the TA's by using a bubble level (the car is still on jack stands), perfectly vertical. Looking through them, the differential hugs are spot on. Then, here's the good part, I installed some large 1/4" steel plates on the faces of the TA hub and drilled and bolted them flat to this surface. The plates are spot-on flat. I suspended the TA's with some all-thread to keep them in this straight vertical position. Are you still with me? Here's the good part. I used some very large T-squares and cross-measured the two opposing plates. Dang is they aren't totally square with each other! Is it possible that with my new GoodParts brackets that I might not need to use shims. This would be uncanny. Now, seeing as the two trailing arm hub faces are totally square with each other, then does this mean that I have zero toe-in! And is this desirable? Or am I all wet. It has been a long weekend and I need some good news for a change....
 
Bill,
When I set up my TAs, I adjusted the brackets per Richard's instructions i.e. The inner bracket starts with the adjuster bottomed out while the outer bracket starts with it about in the middle. Mine ended up perfect on each side with basically zero chamber on both sides. I did note my shims and just re-installed them the same as before. I haven't had my alignment checked but the car seems to track just fine.
 
No shims, a shorter wheel base, :jester: not that 3/8 or so matters. Drive the car to the wheel alignment shop and bring along all your shims, it will all work out.

None the less, interesting and a clever approach to pre-alignment.
 
Bill,

I kinda did the same thing you did. It took me so long to finish my suspension rebuild that forgot what shims went where... so sorta like you, I suspended the TA to the driving position and used a straight edge on the hub to kinda get straight. Then I drove it to an alignment shop first thing... I was off, but not by much.

Have fun!

-s
 
Flumoxed, sounds like something a Dentist would do to a Steer.
 
Zero toe-in is what ya want. The only thing to be concerned over now is front-to-rear distance (from center of hubs) on each side. Easier on an alignment rack with lasers and computer.

Well done, BTW.
 
How important is it for the center of the hub to be centered on the differential hubs when everything goes together? I was thinking, when I get my Rich Patton insert gizmo in tomorrow, I could have a pin-hole sized hole drilled in the dead center, which should make this dead center of my TA hub, and, being as it will be a fairly thick piece of aluminum, shine a laser pin light through the hole and see where it hits the diff hub. This would tell me if the TA is centered on the diff, fore and aft. I have the TA hub on a dead level right now, suspended with some all thread at the shock holes. And can I patent this as Dr. Bill's TA hub centering device?
 
Oh gawd....

This is beginning to take on the appearance of space shuttle engineering!! :shocked:

As long as that engine can't get you to 180 MPH, I think you've already got it to the "close enuff" border.

We'll keep the all-thread rig amongst us chickens tho. THAT in a "package" similar to Richard's bracket rig could be marketable.


...as long as the target audience doesn't read BCF posts. :wink: :jester:
 
KEYBOARD!!!
 
I hate when my flumm gets oxed.

Kind of like when my flabber gets gasted.




sorry
 
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