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Tips

My *8 driveshaft

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DNK

DNK

Great Pumpkin
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The new drive shaft is ready.
What should I do with the old one.
 
TAlk to Ted, he will probably buy it or the price of scrap is up. I personally have kept my old one as a spare in case (of what I am not sure)
 
I think sending it anywhere is cost prohibited with the cost/payback about equal.
 
I think the two I have in my basement could use another friend. No seriously, put it on ebay. Bet you get $100 for it. There are alot of cheapskates out there that won't spend the $350 or so it costs to get a good one made up, and the originals often go bad.
 
Well the drive shaft is home,PURDY. I'm not sure about the old bolts and don't see anything in ARP for driveshafts.3/8's courseX1 3/16 with about .7 plain

DSCF2807.jpg


DSCF2808.jpg
 
Looks nice. Remember, those driveshaft bolts are grade 10.8 or something ridiculous like that. I needed longer brake rotor to hub attachment bolts to secure the 12" Jeep rotors I am using. The driveshaft bolts were the perfect length to go thru the larger Rover front hubs.
 
Todd- What's your opinion. Reuse the old?
Or try to find the new ones.
My hardware store has metric 10. grade but I can guarantee there is none like this.
 
I want a shiny new drive shaft now too..... how much and where at?
 
I paid $325 +tax at my local drive line place.I'll post the price break down tomorrow.
 
I would use the old ones unless there is a problem with them. They have an interfernce pitched thread on them so that they don't come unscrewed.(like the seat belt bolts) Just make sure the new mounting face has the exact same holes, and close to the same thickness as the old shaft. You want as little thread as possible inside the holes. You don't want any slop in the holes either. Threads inside an intermitant laterally stressed hole can do bad things. That is the reason why the rear control arms oblong the body mounting holes for the rear end. Many cars will pull to one side when you get on the gas, and then return to neural when off of the gas. It is the threaded part of the mounting bolts wearing away the thinner body mounts. I always weld in grade 8 washers around the body holes and then redrill the hole and washers to 1/2" instead of the stock 7/16" I also change out the bolts to longer 1/2" grade 8 bolts and several washers so that there is no threads left inside the holes. You also need to modify the rear bushing metal sleeves. I saw on Woody's car, he had large 5 inch plates welded around his rear mounts. He still uses the stock bolts with the stock threads I think.
 
Todd- I got that bolt in front of me and it is a grade 8. Are you sure they came grade 10?
 
My bad. Grade 8.8 stamped on the TR8 bolts. I was thinking of the BMW driveshaft bolts. Same size- 10.9 stamped on those. I got too many cars to keep track of this stuff.
 
Are those Dale's sneakers at the bottom of that photo???

How did he get all the way over to Seattle?
 
Yikes is that where all my beer is going?
 
Here is the invoice for the new driveshaft

invoice.jpg
 
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