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mounting of rear seat pans for BJ7

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chicken

chicken

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My second hand seat pans each had 4 no. flat headed studs welded in that i believe secured them to the car, these in turn i guess were covered up by the seat covers.
However in looking in some books pictures show what look like 4 screws going through the seat cover & pan and securing them that way.
My question is which is the correct way to do it.
Also on another post there was some talk of securing them with velcro for easy access to the fuel pump, any comments.

One last quiery, do the front seat runners bolt directly to the floor and then the carpet cut round them or is the carpet laid first.

Rob
 
The rear seat pans in the BJ7 had the same mounting procedure as the BN4 and BT7 where they were attached with four screws. Probably a philips oval head with a finishing washer. The pans you have are from a BJ8 where they were undermounted. In my BJ7 I mounted the pans like a BJ8 because I did not like the look of the screw heads.

THe front seat runners bolt directly to the floor after the felt paper and before the carpet & pad.
 
Steve

Having read the book i take it that tar paper is just the same as roofing felt, do you know of what grade & does this cover all the floorpan area.

Rob
 
My seat runners had a strip of wood about 3/16th inch thick between them and the floor. Might have been oak.
 
Careful with the wood Vette, do you think it grows on trees !
I think that the wood compensates for the carpet thickness allowing the seats to slide over the carpets.

Bob
 
I'm in the process of refurbishing my BJ8 rear seat pans, and of course all studs need replacing. These started live as 10-32 x 3/4 inch machine screws, with flat, round heads spot welded to the pan in four places. My solution was to knock out the old, broken stud, fabricate and weld in new studs. Not wanting to even attempt the quest for new studs, I drilled a 3/16 inch hole in some 1/4 inch steel flat bar, and inserted a 10-32 x 1" phillips machine screw. A few seconds of working with a ball peen hammer on the head produced a very nice flat head, about the same diameter as the old stud. This weld in very nicely, and will be invisible anyway.
 
Sorry for my grammer. The boss might come in any minute and find me goofing off. This might result in dinner out tonight.
 
Cutlass

I guess that was the conclusion i am coming to as they wont be seen anyway, what do you mean by 10-32 is this the size (i'm a metric man).
Should the rear seat pans fit snuggly/tight in the rear holes or is there tolerance left for the carpet etc, my untrimmed pans seem to sit a bit proud of the hole at first sight, does the hole need trimming back do you think ?

Rob
 
Rob: 10-32 means a number ten machine screw, thirty-two threads per inch. It's about 3/16 inch in diameter. As far as fitting is concerned, I'm not there yet. I disassembled the car four years ago, and am just now in the final paint stages. So your question about fit is beyond me for now. Others should know. Jim
 
Don't trim the whole any larger, the offset allows the carpet to go under the seat pan.
 
Longbridge Healey

Do you have anything else under the rear seats, like jute/foam used in the front of the car.

Rob
 
All there is under my rear seats is the carpet and a layer of insulation (dynomat) which certainly isn't original. Of course this doesn't extend under the seats, just around the rim of them.
 
Seems like an application of something like 3-M's Rocker Panel chip resistant coating would be a good idea for the underside of the rear seat pans. They are pretty well just hanging out there to the elements.
 
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