• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Motor mount reinforecment.

Share this page

J

John_Progess

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
I found an article referring to reinforcement for cracked motor mounts. After inspecting mine, I found them to be cracked in several places. My question is has anyone done this and how did you fabricate the back plate? Does it extend down the entire width of the frame and is it seal welded to the frame and motor mount? I have fabricated them from 1/16" plate and made them to cover the frame but I am not sure this is correct. The article also mentioned reinforcement for wishbone mounts but mine appear to be ok. Any comments are appreciated and have a good day!

John
 
Mine were done about twenty (20) years ago by just welding short pieces of angle-iron where the motor mount joins the frame rail. I'll see it I can dig up some pictures...
 
HI John, First any cracks must be repaired.The stiffeners I have seen are triangular in shape with gently radiused tops made from 1/8" steel plate. One is seam welded on each side of the motor mount support and to the top of the frame . A similar technique is used at the wishbone supports.A half moon shaped piece of metal is cut,seam welded to the frame and then formed over the top of the supports and seam welded in place.---Fwiw---Keoke
 
[ QUOTE ]
John I boxed mine on the inside. Skip

[/ QUOTE ]

Hi Skip, did you leave an open space at the top so you can get at the mounting nuts incase a replacement is required?.---Keoke
 
Yes I left enough room to get a box end wrench inside, I don`t remember what thickness metal I used but I wish I had used the angle iron idea. That sounds like a good idea. Skip
 
No Skip, IMOP the full height triangular supports are the best.ON second thought the angle iron method is about the same if its done right---Keoke
 
You are right Keoke I had to replace one entire frame rail so while I was there I also added the small angle iron around the transmission tunnel to help get rid of the scuttle shake.
 
I boxed the back of the motor mounts, but extxended the boxing in a triangular fashion from the top of the mounts to the front and rear, about two inches on either side. In addition, I left the mount unboxed for about one-half inch at the bottom to allow for water to drain from the inside of the mounts. I like the idea of leaving a space at the top for a wrench if needed later, but didn't think of that at the time.
 
Yep JW, thats the best way I know of to stop that engine from walking around in the engine compartment. One more change I would also use is to place polly bushings on the tranny support. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif---Keoke
 
[ QUOTE ]
One more change I would also use is to place polly bushings on the tranny support. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif---Keoke

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

I presume you mean the center "stay" from the middle of the transmission rear casing to the chassis crucifix rather than the two mounts on the sides of the rear casing.

If so, yes, I've got some poly ones- they seem identical to the poly bushings used for the anti-sway bars.
 
You are spot on JW those bushes will work a treat there.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/patriot.gif
 
Back
Top