• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR6 Motor install--with or without trans.??, [TR6]

ALLAN

Jedi Warrior
Offline
I know this is an old debated question but Im getting ready to stab my motor and wanted to see what the latest thoughts are on this. Which way is better, pros/cons, recomendations?. Also should I bolt up the starter before install?
 
Allan, there really is no good way to install the engine without the transmission attached. And why not have the starter installed. Just gotta get the front of the car down low to the ground with the tail up in the air a bit and you need a lift with the ability to tilt the the engine/tranny. Really a one-man job. Mine goes back in next week, I hope.
 
I have done it both ways. My preference these days is to install with the transmission off as I find it easier to manage. The best way to install an engine is with everything attached and when the body is off.

Ray
 
Hey Allan,...put me in the "attach everything you can" camp. I'm on of those that gets physically ill from working with my head back on the ground, so I look for any way to take advantage of wide open spaces to perform a task.
Sometimes it's easier to remove the intake and exhaust, and of course as the engine finds it's way down, don't forget Starter wire connections...it'll never be easier.
Good luck Bob
 
Thanks for the replys,---So what Im getting so far is to install with trans., but no intake or exhaust? Would like to see some more opinions on this?.
 
I pulled (and will re-install) my engine with triple carbs, split headers and starter all in place along with the tranny.
 
Hey Dr. Bill, while your motor is out could you take out 1 of the front bolts on the top cover of the gearbox. I need a measurement on the drivers side one. I can't get mine to tighten and I ran a tap in there and the threads are fine.
Thanks
 
Are you referring to one of the 3 studs that are in the top of the engine that hold the tranny on?
 
No the gearbox top cover where the shifter goes into.
The Blue Book shows 2 3/4 "
 
The front bolt should be 2 3/4" long. The rear bolt should be 2 7/8" long.
 
Is it possible that you stripped the aluminum threads? That is never fun. Does it keep turning or won't suck the washer tight? Switch bolts.
 
Hi,

I always prefer to have the gearbox attached before installing in the car.

Get an engine leveller to make the job easier. I use and Oberg Tilt-Lift, as shown at https://www.thestricklincompanies.com/html/other/op.html But there are other makes and types that work well, too. One main thing I like about the Oberg is that it's small and easily stores in one of my tool box drawers.

In a nutshell, I like to install as much as possible outside the engine compartment. I ain't gettin' any younger and all that bending over and crawling under is hard on my back and other parts. How much can be installed in advance really depends on the car. Often, intake & exhaust manifolds, alternator and some other bits need to be left off to best fit the engine into the car. The service manual will often tell you a minimum of what needs to be removed.
 
Back
Top