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Motive Products pressure bleeder

Okay then,
i am still looking for a part number for the BMW reservoir adapter if anyone can tell me which cap actually fits. I have the one that is supposed to be for the Healey but it does not fit well.
Thanks,
Lin
I purchased either a #6 or #9, can't tell which number is correct. It did not fit but it did start to thread ok until it jammed. I think I'll try the Dremel tool approach next per Ed_K. In the interim I purchased the universal adapter and it had 4 hooks with chains that was a real disaster to install on the Healey brake cannister. I have several photos but they're all on my other PC that is slowly dying and I need to transfer them so I will post when that's done.
 
I bought a reservoir cap and put a Shrader valve in it. Around 10psi from the compressor/regulator with a locking chuck and it works a treat.
 
I bought a Motive Pressure Bleeder and a cap that was supposed to fit the reservoir threads on my Healey. However, I could never get it started on the threads. Since I have replaced my reservoir with a new one from Moss, I am presuming that the threads are not the same as on the original. A mechanic friend bled my slave cylinder with a syringe similar to one shown earlier in this post, only he emptied the clutch fluid section of the reservoir and then pushed new fluid up to the reservoir. It worked well doing it that way
 
I'm back!
First let me say that while I have been looking for "an easier way" to do hydraulic bleeding, I am not new to this. I have installed masters, and slave cylinders on numerous cars the old fashioned way (with my wife's assistance, of course). Never really had any problems just always in each of a better way.

Steve, I did get the syringe and I really like it.

I put in a new 3/4" master for my BT7 brakes. All installed and brakes bled. Everything worked like a charm. Pedal is better than ever. All done the "old fashioned way."

I rebuilt the 5/8" clutch master but have experienced no joy! The pedal just pushes down with almost no resistance, I then close the bleeder, lift the pedal, open the bleeder, and push the pedal down again with no resistance, close the bleeder, lift the pedal and repeated about 7-8 times. I am getting virtually no fluid out of the slave cylinder.

Is the valve in the master stuck at the end of the bore? If so, is there anything to do other than stand on my head under the dash pull it all out again.

Any ideas?

I would like to try the motive bleeder I have and just push the fluid through the system with 10-15 lbs of air pressure, but so far, no one can tell me a model number for a reservoir cap that will work. I guess I will just order a new metal reservoir cap and make a fitting to work.

Thanks for any help anyone might offer. I am a little puzzled and ready to start over.

Lin
 
I'm back!
First let me say that while I have been looking for "an easier way" to do hydraulic bleeding, I am not new to this. I have installed masters, and slave cylinders on numerous cars the old fashioned way (with my wife's assistance, of course). Never really had any problems just always in each of a better way.

Steve, I did get the syringe and I really like it.

I put in a new 3/4" master for my BT7 brakes. All installed and brakes bled. Everything worked like a charm. Pedal is better than ever. All done the "old fashioned way."

I rebuilt the 5/8" clutch master but have experienced no joy! The pedal just pushes down with almost no resistance, I then close the bleeder, lift the pedal, open the bleeder, and push the pedal down again with no resistance, close the bleeder, lift the pedal and repeated about 7-8 times. I am getting virtually no fluid out of the slave cylinder.

Is the valve in the master stuck at the end of the bore? If so, is there anything to do other than stand on my head under the dash pull it all out again.

Any ideas?

I would like to try the motive bleeder I have and just push the fluid through the system with 10-15 lbs of air pressure, but so far, no one can tell me a model number for a reservoir cap that will work. I guess I will just order a new metal reservoir cap and make a fitting to work.

Thanks for any help anyone might offer. I am a little puzzled and ready to start over.

Lin
Out of desperation I purchased this contraption. You can imagine what a bear it was to try and install it and what the results were!! I'm going to take the Motive Cap I purchased and use a Dremel tool on it like Ed K. did. Forget trying to get the hose adapter in this country for it. They're foreign as in Germany(I've been told).
 

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I have their 1100 adapter which fits BN4 thru BJ8 according to their fitment guide which i found here
https://www.motiveproducts.com/files/Download/Application Guide.pdf
It is a black plastic cap with a hose that has a quick disconnect fitting because the tool can be used with
any of their adapter caps with the same quick disconnect fitting.
Summit racing has it here https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mvp-1100?seid=srese1&gclid=CNCxxa6iusECFSxk7AodXmIA8w
Mine looks just like the photo.
Patrick, I think they just made them to tight tolerances so they know they will seal once you get them screwed on to the reservoir.
As I said earlier, it also fits my wife's Mercedes perfectly so it is the tool that is made slightly out of tolerance the reservoir is the exact same size as the Mercedes and
apparently any European car with a 45mm threaded cap.
The videos that I found on youtube are showing you how to use the tool wet. Randy and I both use the tool dry. Just fill up your car's reservoir, screw on the cap,
pump it up to 5 lbs, not 15 like the videos are showing and start bleeding.
 
Exactly, you only need to pump it up to 5 lbs, any more than that simply increases the risk of forcing air bubbles into solution with the brake fluid. Use the tool dry
 
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