• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Moss Brand Head Studs for 1500

Share this page

M

Matthew E. Herd

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Hello all,

After buying Moss's head studs for my 1500, and torqueing them to 25 ft-lbs (in the correct sequence) followed by a final torque to 45 ft-lbs, two of the studs (which were brand new, and cost 4.55 each ...) got stripped threads before 35 ft-lbs was achieved. I was wondering if anyone else had this problem? I'm quite disatisfied with these results. This leaves me to believe that they're inadequate for the additional stress of the engine actually running.
 
What type of torque wrench were you using? Has it ever been calibrated? I was helping my brother one day and his click type torque wrench felt wrong. When I checked it (using weights and a foot of angle arm) it was off by 12 lbs! My beam style was almost exactly correct. Or... the studs were defective ... I'm sure they will replace them no charge.
 
Did those new Moss 1500 studs have a groove cut down the length of the threads? Just curious.
About the new studs breaking - I had the same problem on new MG 18V studs. Just a bad batch.
Edit - did you clean the threads in the hole first and oil the threads?
 
I did not oil the threads. Yes, they did have a slit down the one side on the block side.
 
Matt, I had the same thing happen with some of their studs for a 1500. I now use nothing but ARP hardware.
And, all of my torque wrenches have current calibrations. I use the dial gauge version for most of the engine assembly work.
Jeff
 
Back
Top