more progress

[tomshobby]

I dropped in to Al Hickey's ATH Repair Shop in Mauston, WI this morning to visit and see how my engine bay is doing. During the late 80's and early 90's I worked for Al's dad, Dennis, and with several of the guys now in Al's shop. Ended up spending the day running around with Dennis picking up and delivering a couple cars, catching up on the local news (gossip), and discussing all the important things, as in do you remember when things.

Al is going to build a large addition on to his dad's old shop and do strictly restorations there. His new shop is just getting to small for all the work he has.

I found the hood was primed and ready for color. From today's progress I would think that the paint work might be finished tomorrow.

Morning

Noon (Chevy in the background in a frame off restoration.)

And night

Was in Al's home and of course there are a pair of ready to run dyno tested Hemi's next to the fire place.

And then there is the answer to what would to do with a brand new beige Chrysler 300 that you really like except for the color!

 

[Guest]

Noon (Chevy in the background in a frame off restoration.)

Hmmmm, 55 Shoebox. Shades of Two-Lane Blacktop, or is that a 4-door.

 

[Tinster]

Tom,

Looking real nice. How much rusted sheet metal
required chopping out and replacement? Where were
the major areas of rust in the engine bay?

Later this year, with the Crypt Car on jack stands, I'm
planning on attempting to get rid of some engine bay
rust with the engine in-place. What areas did you find
the most rust?

thanks much

d /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif

 

[tomshobby]

Hi Bill,

It is a 2-door. These guys have been known for their restoration work for many years, especially in the Mopar circle. It was much fun working with them because there was always something interesting in the shop. I did all the mechanical work. I did have some fun though, they got a car in and the owner wanted only lead to be used, no plastic fillers. Turned out I was the only one that knew how to lead and had to show them how.

Oh, it is a 2-door.

 

[Brosky]

Now THAT is the right way to do it!! I would have done the same if my engine was out, but it wasn't and I'm just about done getting at the tiny areas that hide from the spray head.

I hope that you are going with the color of the car after all of that work. Nothing against the black compartments, but the original color looks better to me. JMHO.

 

[tomshobby]

Hi Dale, how was your trip? There was very little rust and only in a few places where the paint came off. I did not have to replace any metal and the frame looked like brand new shiny metal under the paint and oil. The entire body only has a couple of tiny rust patches, one near each headlight.

Paul, Part of the reason for having Al do this in his shop is so we have the paint code for when the body is done. I know some like the black engine bays but it is not my cup of tea. When Al restores a vehicle he uses Sikins base/clear the same as the exterior. The only difference is he adds about 20% satin clear to the gloss clear so there is not quite as much shine as the exterior. He feels it looks better to have that small contrast and that it is a little more forgiving when it gets a little dirty. As for me, I am trusting the many years of experience in that shop.

My Jetcoated Pacesseters arived yesterday and my thrust washers from Scott Helms also arrived. I had Scott make one .0025 oversize. The ones Scott made made the AE ones look anemic. Scott's seem like they have twice the surface and are solid bronze, not just a thin plating of bronze.

 

[Brosky]

Basecoat/Clearcoats have their advantages and disadvantages. If you look at my engine compartment in the bright sun under certain conditions, the color match to the body is perfect. It is always perfect under fluorescent lighting, which is used in most body shops and paint booths. But if you get in just the right degree of light and angle of the sun, the engine compartment is a slightly different shade of yellow than the body. The clearcoat created this issue, which I've seen before on other cars, more so in lighter colors.

This may explain his plan to use a satin finish, which will give you the ability to avoid any changes that will result in painting the engine compartment today and the body three months from now. At least your expectations won't be to have a perfect match. With your darker color, it may all be a moot point anyhow.

That and the fact the I have 20 year old acrylic enamel on my exterior and new clearcoat under the hood.

 

[YankeeTR]

Basecoat/Clearcoats have their advantages and disadvantages. If you look at my engine compartment in the bright sun under certain conditions, the color match to the body is perfect. It is always perfect under fluorescent lighting, which is used in most body shops and paint booths. But if you get in just the right degree of light and angle of the sun, the engine compartment is a slightly different shade of yellow than the body. The clearcoat created this issue, which I've seen before on other cars, more so in lighter colors.

This may explain his plan to use a satin finish, which will give you the ability to avoid any changes that will result in painting the engine compartment today and the body three months from now. At least your expectations won't be to have a perfect match. With your darker color, it may all be a moot point anyhow.

That and the fact the I have 20 year old acrylic enamel on my exterior and new clearcoat under the hood.

Many clears have a tendency to yellow over time...some quicker than others.

Of course every paint manufacturer will tell you that theirs won't yellow...

 

[Brosky]

Yank,

Yellow is not my problem!! I got plenty of Yellow!! I got yellow coming out the wazoo!!

It's just the slight variation in different light that bugs me, but that's just my nit picky side kicking in.