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Monza fuel cap - How do I remove it?

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apbos

apbos

Jedi Knight
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Ok, I removed the 3 allen screws and it will slide up and down the fuel pipe, but how do I remove it from the pipe without crushing it? This cap came with a 1968 parts car and I want to use it on my B/E, which is almost ready for paint. Any ideas? does the fuel pipe end come off?

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That is a T-bird hardtop for those of you who are curious.
Thanks
Paul
 
can you remove the pin from the lid or the latch? almost looks like it need to be pried a bit wider to get over the flange.
 
If you look closely at your first photo it looks like there is a welded line about 3/4" below the top lip. I bet that is how they got it on. Guess how you have to get it off-
BillM
 
Tell us why that cap can't be reused. Pitted Chrome?
 
Jim
The cap is what I want to save! It is in good shape. I'm scared that if I cut the pipe I might regret it. The pipe is fixed to the Bugeye fuel tank and if I have to cut it off, the newer model pipe will work better (flanged at the lower end etc).
Bill I will take a look again to see if I see a weld. If there is one who-ever did the welding was really good (like food quality welding (good) on stainless steal piping)!

Paul
 
Bill was correct! It is welded! I thought it was just a grove from the hex nuts, but the guy did a great job welding. So now I will break out the saw.
Thanks
Paul
 
If the guy had cut it lower he would not have had to use such a nice weld and would not have had to grind it down.
I imagine you, Paul, will just use a hose.

Kurt.
 
So what's wrong with cutting the pipe and cutting the tank pipe to correct length and using a piece of flex rubber hose like the later Spridgets use. It would be unseen unless someone crawled into the boot. Unless you are after a concours restoration and then having a Monza style cap is not per the Horler book anyway I do not think. I've never seen a BE Tank up close but that sure sounds simpler to me. KISS!
 
Jim
The flaring at the ends of the pipe help keep the hose on. I would loose that, but looks like I have no choice since I ca n not weld that good. Wish you could see where I am writing this. Currently encircled by 6000 cows.
Paul
 
OK how about a muffler shop. They have the ability to add flares, stretch muffler pipes, it's about the right size for something like that. Noodle on that thought for a while.
 
Good idea!
 
I don't really see the need for the flair. There should be little or no pressure in the tank and a jubilee clamp on a proper fitting hose should seal it enough. If it was a hydraulic or water hose connection I would get it flared. Hydraulic place should also be able to flare it.
 
I had a Friday afternoon made tank. Fixed the issues with the fill pipe when doing the body work. Also cut slots in the fill tube inside the tank to get the rest of the tanks volume back. Pipe extended 1 1/2 inches into the tank and the gas cap would only go on with the palm of your hand. Been fine so far. And a breeze to re-install..
 

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Works fine and lasts a long time. We often overthink this stuff.
 
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