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Modern Starters on Tr's

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I purchased one that looks similar. I notice the
flanges are open; whereas on mine they are closed.
Open flanges cannote grater flexability, I would think,
but the matching to the ring gear seems more important.
My car is a '74 TR6, but you didn't mention what you
have.
 
prb51 said:
This vendor advertises and one size fits all, I've emailed him but recv'd no repsonse as yet.
All of the others adv. sep units for TR2/3 and later 3a's4's because of the ring gear.
What's up? Anyone purchased this item?

https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-T...tem130186332424
Click to expand...

I looked at that today myself. I feel that guy's got it wrong. I wound up buying one from Dr. Marty about three hours ago for the later style flywheel...

https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-T...emZ250200910748

He's sells gear reduction starters for every LBC, and he has two different starters for the TR3. I've been to his house to pick stuff up, and he's a real LBC enthusiast. He sells a ton of different stuff for these cars. And, yes he's a real doctor. I highly recommend him. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

Edit: OK, someone's gonna ask why is this guy selling stuff on e-bay if he's a doctor. As he told me, when he was going to school, he needed a way to pay for his tuition etc., so he started selling british auto parts. It just became part of his life, and it pays for his LBC toys. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif Man, ya gotta see his house. Great stuff all over the place! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thirsty.gif
 
Art,
I'd use the other model for the shrunk on gear and agree that one size does not fit all.
Also, thanks for the positive info on the seller.
Does the firewall button solenoid remain operative with these modern units. I'd hate to lose that option when adjusting valves.
 
prb51 said:
Does the firewall button solenoid remain operative with these modern units.
Click to expand...
Depends on how you wire it; but mine still works.

I agree that different pinions are a requirement; but it's at least possible that he finds out which one you need after the auction ends, and installs that on the starter he sends to you. Everything else remains the same, only the pinion gear changes.

BTW, the change in ring gear/flywheel happened during the TR3A run. Early 3As (like mine) take the same starter as the TR2/3; unless of course they have been modified (as mine has).
 
prb51 said:
Art,

Does the firewall button solenoid remain operative with these modern units. I'd hate to lose that option when adjusting valves.
Click to expand...

OK, if you look at the picture of the starter that you linked to at e-bay you will see a red jumper wire installed. That is all that is neccessary to to retain the original starter relay. I don't know if Dr. Marty's has that, as I haven't rec'd it yet. I'm sure he knows about this, and would either supply it or give instructions on how to add it if you're retaining the original relay. Either way, it's no big deal. That jumper wire will activate the gear reduction solenoid when the solenoid on your firewall sends current to the starter.
 
I was dubious about my original solenoid carrying current for the new starter motor (part of the smoke had already leaked out), so I wired the main lead from the new starter to the battery terminal of the original solenoid. Then ran a new wire from the load side of the old solenoid to the input of the new solenoid.
 
TR3driver said:
I was dubious about my original solenoid carrying current for the new starter motor (part of the smoke had already leaked out), so I wired the main lead from the new starter to the battery terminal of the original solenoid. Then ran a new wire from the load side of the old solenoid to the input of the new solenoid.
Click to expand...

That's really a better way to do it. No sense in having another voltage drop through another set of contacts. As a matter of fact, that's the way I'm going to do mine.

Thanks for the heads up Randall. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
 
Randall,
I purchased the proper starter from the above mentioned gent (too good a sale price).
I'm an electrical dummy unless I have a picture, can you draw me a schematic of what you did as I do want to retain the button solenoid.
 
Sorry, I'm lousy at drawing schematics and such; lack both tools & talent.

But the mod was pretty easy, so maybe 1000 words will do instead /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

I kept the original heavy wire from the solenoid to the starter, but re-routed it to the top terminal of the solenoid (where the cable from the battery goes). Then it connects to the post/nut on the new starter starter.

Then I created a new wire with suitable terminals (1/4" ring at the top IIRC, 1/4" quick connect at the bottom) to go from the bottom terminal of the original solenoid (where the starter wire used to go) to the smaller side terminal on the new starter solenoid. I used 12AWG stranded wire, just because that's what I had handy and I like a bit of overkill in my wiring; but this wire only carries about 12 amps (and intermittantly at that) so you could get by with much smaller wire if you want.
 
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