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Went to look at a solid MKX today. It has been idle for 20 years. Looks cosmetically good.One small patch on floorpan below drivers feet. No rust visible om floors anywhere, Older fair restoration. Some wavyness on doors. Paint semi servicable. Carpets are bad. Old gas , no hydraulic pressure. Motor seems free. It is a '66. He wants around $3500. Is it worth it, or run away?? Shows around 70K on odometer, has manual, tools ,etc. I do all of my own work.
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MKX Worth IT?
- Thread starter ctp
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D
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Why not? Big car, you'll spend at least that much getting it going again, but it'll be a head-turner.
Clean title?
Dave
Clean title?
Dave
Marvin Gruber
Yoda
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The triple carb set up is worth close to half the price of the car.
jessebogan
Jedi Knight
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MKXs are great cars. IMO they are easily the equivalent of the Rolls made in the same era. 66 is a 4.2, and most of the issues that plagued the early cars were solved by then. Quiet and fast, ... Parts seem to be fairly available (I am resurrecting a Daimler DS420 limo for someone, pretty much a MKX under the skin) A lot of the stuff I need has to come from England, but thru one of the major suppliers. I also know someone has used parts. I would say , if you like the car, Go For It!!!. But dicker on the price anyway...
D
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One thing you need to ask yourself. WHY was it parked 20 years ago?
Engine? Maybe.
Transmission? Most likely.
Diff? Could be.
Rest of the stuff is easy.
Hate to see something complete parted...once it's parted, it's gone.
You won't be unbolting wings to sell them.
Dave
Engine? Maybe.
Transmission? Most likely.
Diff? Could be.
Rest of the stuff is easy.
Hate to see something complete parted...once it's parted, it's gone.
You won't be unbolting wings to sell them.
Dave
Well, where is the value here? The owner bought it at the Auburn auction in 1991. It "broke down" on the drive home. Has been parked ever since.I have no other info. It is very solid with great interior (except floor carpet). Has the rear AC still. Is the value here even if a major component is bad? Are the engine and carbs the high dollar items? Is there a real market for this car or am I gonna sit on it for a year even if sorted till it sells?
D
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The value is in a running vehicle. You buy it, you fix it, and hope to make money...or, you fix it, drive it, and enjoy it.
I ain't sure the carbs are worth that much...maybe...all depends on what someone will actually pay for them.
You need to get it home, clean up the fuel system, lube the cylinders, change the oil and filter, crank it for oil pressure (and fuel flow) with no plugs, then check for spark, clean up the carbs enough to make them function, and see if it will light off.
It's gonna smoke until you burn the oil out....then should clean up. Watch the temperature and look for coolant leaks.
Exhaust may have reverted to iron oxide by now.As long as it isn't pointing at a fuel tank or fuel line, you're okay for a while.
Check trans level while running (stick should tell you running or not, park or neutral), add as necessary with the correct stuff.
Chock the wheels, drop in in drive..does it load up? Try reverse..does it load up?
Re-check the trans level.
Stay away from the electrics as much as possible for now, other than fuel pump and distributor. You need to find out if it runs, clanks, rod through the sump, if the trans works...THEN you get it titled up, get an exhaust, brakes, tyres, lights, power windows, AC. Let me know this time next year how you're doing with it!
(joke)
Exhaust, calipers, master, pads, turn rotors, hoses, booster, carbs, fuel pump, radiator and heater hoses, coolant, oil and filter, belts, battery, fuel tank remove, clean, inspect, oh, five grand more? You do all the work, maybe three.
I ain't sure the carbs are worth that much...maybe...all depends on what someone will actually pay for them.
You need to get it home, clean up the fuel system, lube the cylinders, change the oil and filter, crank it for oil pressure (and fuel flow) with no plugs, then check for spark, clean up the carbs enough to make them function, and see if it will light off.
It's gonna smoke until you burn the oil out....then should clean up. Watch the temperature and look for coolant leaks.
Exhaust may have reverted to iron oxide by now.As long as it isn't pointing at a fuel tank or fuel line, you're okay for a while.
Check trans level while running (stick should tell you running or not, park or neutral), add as necessary with the correct stuff.
Chock the wheels, drop in in drive..does it load up? Try reverse..does it load up?
Re-check the trans level.
Stay away from the electrics as much as possible for now, other than fuel pump and distributor. You need to find out if it runs, clanks, rod through the sump, if the trans works...THEN you get it titled up, get an exhaust, brakes, tyres, lights, power windows, AC. Let me know this time next year how you're doing with it!
(joke)
Exhaust, calipers, master, pads, turn rotors, hoses, booster, carbs, fuel pump, radiator and heater hoses, coolant, oil and filter, belts, battery, fuel tank remove, clean, inspect, oh, five grand more? You do all the work, maybe three.
I think I am gonna bail on this dream....
Here is a reply I got on another Forum:
I see an incorrectly "restored" car. They didn't even bother to
remove the door rubber when they painted the car; the over-spray is
really, really bad. The seats look like vinyl to me. The boot is
missing the hardura panels that cover the fuel tanks, as well as the
carpets. The burl veneer is missing from the woodwork. The door cards
are the wrong pattern and shouldn't have exposed screws.
Generally, one looks for a Mk 10 that has something good or
excellent, in the following categories: leather, interior wood and
carpets and headliner, body, engine and running gear. Each category
is $5k to $10k to fix except the body, where the sky is the limit.
For this car, it has nothing to recommend it. Not even one category
gets a "good" rating in my opinion. Unless it was VERY cheap and I
was looking for a driver, I wouldn't touch it.
To answer your specific questions:
The triple carb set up has value. The interior seats have value if
leather. The body has value if it's straight underneath the bad
paint. The whole car, taken as a sum of its parts, has negligible
value due to it's not running, previously poorly done work, missing
items, and the fact it's been sitting for decades.
Craig
Here is a reply I got on another Forum:
I see an incorrectly "restored" car. They didn't even bother to
remove the door rubber when they painted the car; the over-spray is
really, really bad. The seats look like vinyl to me. The boot is
missing the hardura panels that cover the fuel tanks, as well as the
carpets. The burl veneer is missing from the woodwork. The door cards
are the wrong pattern and shouldn't have exposed screws.
Generally, one looks for a Mk 10 that has something good or
excellent, in the following categories: leather, interior wood and
carpets and headliner, body, engine and running gear. Each category
is $5k to $10k to fix except the body, where the sky is the limit.
For this car, it has nothing to recommend it. Not even one category
gets a "good" rating in my opinion. Unless it was VERY cheap and I
was looking for a driver, I wouldn't touch it.
To answer your specific questions:
The triple carb set up has value. The interior seats have value if
leather. The body has value if it's straight underneath the bad
paint. The whole car, taken as a sum of its parts, has negligible
value due to it's not running, previously poorly done work, missing
items, and the fact it's been sitting for decades.
Craig
D
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I thought I was specific.......the value is in the running.
I thought I gave a sort of guideline as to how to get it running.
Yeah, I saw all that...paint, not sure about vinyl from the photos, door seals are easy (and removes paint at same time), wood can be an issue, but it has to run, or zero value.
My MK2 ran when I got it.......and I don't even want to guess as to how much it's cost to get it right....remove the MB carbs and put on originals....fuel fittings....rebuild hydraulics.....bushings.....refinish wood......console (missing forward section), fuel pump and hoses, u-joints, pinion seal, oil lines, gaskets......
I thought I gave a sort of guideline as to how to get it running.
Yeah, I saw all that...paint, not sure about vinyl from the photos, door seals are easy (and removes paint at same time), wood can be an issue, but it has to run, or zero value.
My MK2 ran when I got it.......and I don't even want to guess as to how much it's cost to get it right....remove the MB carbs and put on originals....fuel fittings....rebuild hydraulics.....bushings.....refinish wood......console (missing forward section), fuel pump and hoses, u-joints, pinion seal, oil lines, gaskets......