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MK2 vs 420 values

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tdskip

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Good morning gentlemen, hope everybody is having a good weekend. I wanted to ask for some coaching on Mark two verses 420 values for cars that are in roughly similar condition. To be more specific I'm looking at two different cars that are priced very similarly and I are both scruffy but solid drivers.

Edit: I got my model identification wrong, I'm talking about a 66 3.8 S type.

Both have very good bones and need about the same amount of servicing to be around town reliable drivers, and I do know that restoring either to a good standard would be a very expensive endeavor. Both are automatics.

It seems that the Marktwo cars bring a substantial premium, two or 3X from what I've seen, over the 420 cars. Am I reading the market right on that? If everything else is the same wood that suggest spending time on the MK2?

As far as driving experience goes are they similar enough to be-roughly-interchangeable or does the 420 drive in a distinct manner?

thank you in advance for the education.
 
Just to clarify your "Edit: I got my model identification wrong, I'm talking about a 66 3.8 S type."

Which one is "edited", the MK2 or the 420?
 
Hi there-thanks for the note back. The 420 is a straight up 420, it was the S type that I was confusing on. It's a 66 3.8 automatic transmission car.
 
Lots of folks like that IRS and bigger car stuff. But it seems even more prefer the MK1/MK2 genre, hence the disparity in sales prices you have seen.
Actual/factual value is difficult without a survey of the vehicles and a comparison.
If they run, and need body/paint/interior, worth far less than one would imagine just given the "Jaguar" moniker.

Then you get auction stupidity or American Pickers and all bets are off.

Knowing the amount of work mechanically (and add in IRS to the mix), plus cost of interior, body, paint, tyres, chrome....if they run, three grand is a starting point (and that number I have hard experience with).
 
Hi TOC - good to hear from you (I've been scarce here, air cooled things distracting me).

Sounds like the 420 will be a tough one to get my money out of for the same amount of work.

Getting an education on the valves here, it's a bit shocking that they are as low as they are for drivers. The 420 I'm looking at is a 70,000 mile car that runs and drives well and has original paint and as far as I can see it's a bit shocking that they are as low as they are for drivers. The 420 I'm looking at is a 70,000 mile car that runs and drives well and has original paint and as far as I can see zero rot ( was part of a six Jaguar collection, garages since new in a dry part of the state).
 
SoCal does help...a lot. What kind of money?
SoCal and sun....wood, paint, leather.....not good.
Doing the wood and interior may exceed the value..opinion.

My MK2 had new interior, had to refinish wood (and the rotted stuff....it cam with a full spare RHD 2.4 dash) so I had enough.
Still needs paint.
Had to do the engine last year, that hurt.
 
The car is entirely in tact in original, but as you might expect the weather is dry increased and one of the front seat has a tear. Headliner is a bit droopy, paint is somewhat dry but would probably come up with some care and attention. Door caps are dry and cracked but the actual door panels are OK.

Wood on the dash has some varnish peeling off it but the owner Winewood is not cracked. To make it nice you'd have to pull the dash off and re-varnish

It would be around $8k
 
8 is not bad if it runs okay. You gotta add up the costs before you pull the trigger. Jags have a very healthy appetite for hundred dollar bills.
Both have IRS, and I cannot recall the process, if different than an E....but doing rear brakes can be a life changing experience.
 
More like a voracious appetite I’d imagine.

I am thinking of buying it and doing the mechanical things to make it a fully reliable driver, and seeing if I can bring the paint back. Don’t think it is a long term car, who knows I could fall in l love with her, so I’d need to be thoughtful about not getting top upside down.

If I do al the wrenching think I could pull that off?

i very much appreciate the coaching, thank you.
 
yeah, you can pull it off...as long as you don't think of a Jag as a reliable driver....
 
I had someone ask me how I could drive a 60s Jag daily. I drove mine to work a lot and took frequent trips. I told them you have to keep up on maintenance and do a regular tune-up. (A Master GM mechanic once told me a tune up is nothing but fixing a running problem.) I said, "not a parts tune-up, get on the road and do a 100 mph run for a few minutes a couple times a week." Blows the cobs out, lubes all joints and lets you know of impending problems. I never had a Jag breakdown on the highway. Seems they always died in the driveway, because they did not want to go anywhere.
 
After you check it out. Don't want to wind up like Mike Hawthorn. If they sit too long something always starts leaking
 
well....I've had my MK2 for over ten years, drive it every day (unless I fire up one of the Flatheads to drive), and I suppose my biggest issue has been brakes.

Had two masters resleeved, could not keep rubbers in them, even re-honed one...six moths, and they were shot.
Calipers....but that's classic Brit, with the seal on the piston that drags on freshly rusted bores.

Boosters....still not "right", but at least acceptable.
 
Didn't mean to get away from the topic. MK2 or 420. Value can't be a matter when restoring either. MK2 values are up some, but rather steady. If one goes at a big production auction prices are silly and only for the rich. MK2 is more popular. 420 is more refined in suspension and has the latest in factory updates, but has not caught on the market. Thinner bumpers, which are lighter, are not seen as much as the MK1 &2 big bumpers. All in a preference on what you can do. Research parts for both and flip your coin and get dirty. I have MK1s, TOC has a MK2. I have worked on a 420. An old Jag is just a nice car to drive.
 
tdskip said:
TOC - parts quality issues?
Click to expand...

ALWAYS.
In 10 years, I think every part I replaced has been done more than once. Figure some of that lasted 40 years first go around and you wonder.

Front sub frame mounts. Geez. You would think somebody could make them that don't fail all the freaking time.
But, if you want to drive them (or even park them forever), they will need lots of bits.
 
Got it - similar to MGB and TR6 repro parts issues.

Interestingly the reproduction Porsche parts that are available are generally pretty darn good quality. Go figure
 
I think the scary part of MK2 Jag brakes is DOT5. ALL the suppliers of cylinders and rubber bits have told me NEVER use DOT5 as NONE of the rubber bits are designed to work with it.
Yet, people do....
 
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