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MK2 front wheel bearing adjustment

  • Thread starter Deleted member 8987
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Deleted member 8987

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I have some play in my wheels.
It's bearings.

Now, I removed them, scraped out 55 year old grease, cleaned and re-packed....but.

The factory manual talks about a maximum of .005" end play in the hubs.
It also says to tighten the nut until the bearings feel rough, back to the first hole and install a new split pin (that's close to what it says).

Many many moons ago I had a wheel bearing fry that was a bit too tight, and the last thing I need is for that to happen on the Jag.

Any body had experience with tighting more than one finger in the end of a 12" crescent?
 
New keyboard.

My old black letters on white finally quit, so I've got this black with white letters and I can't see the stupid thing.
 
Tighten until wheel feels tight and back off one hole add stainless split pin ( cotter ) and put cap back on, good for the next few years. Never had a failure!
 
Boy.
What the manual and youse guys tell me translates to "preload", which you don't do in the older cars I have worked on all these years.

So, I called up this Limey I know, runs the local Jag Dealer Shop.
Preload.

What I am having issues with is how does one justify end-float with pre-load?

How do you get less than .005" end float if you're pre-loading the bearings?

I mean, yeah, zero end float if pre-loaded, but up to .005" on pre-load?

He also said Land Rover just changed their specs to pre-load.

I don't know if I want to do that before I take the car on a rally tomorrow morning.

Think I'll wait a bit, try it local. Check for heat.
 
I figure most shops want to make it sound difficult. Especially with regards to the economy and such. But, I have 44 years experience with Certification, and haven't erred yet.
I race with the local SCCA, have Marine Certification and pretty much take pride in my work. Have worked at various shops, but moved to another main field until retirement in 2012. I still retain my certs and do work at night on LBCs and newer domestic vehicles, which can be a bear sometimes with all the technical baahoo to make it look hard. When I take a car ( when I was commuting 100 miles a day ) and the oil shop pulls the trans stick and tells me oil is full, or strips the drain plugs, I have issues with them. Bought a 150 Ford truck, when I got it home it had 50lbs. air in each tire. Door tag says 35lbs., who's right, the mechanic that can't read or me for following Ford's recommendations? Ran out of time when testing my boat a 175 Mariner, wife was sick , winter getting close, took to shop with list of all things done, 3 1/2 weeks later picked up dismantled boat and towed home and put back together. Will not let anybody touch my vehicles ever again. Tried and true method on older Jags, Chevys, Fords, MGs, Triumphs, and even Land Rovers is what I told you. Follow your guts, most times you will not be wrong.
 
that is exactly my problem LarryK, I don't want anybody to touch my Jaguars.

I know that every bolt has its factory star washer and the minute someone else unscrews that bolt, the star washer is lost forever. I don't break parts or use neandarthal methods to remove stuck parts, and certainly never a 7 lb. sledgehammer, but I see others hitting parts angrily, as if the proper tools did not exist.

Stripped oil drain bolts or tank drain bolts are but one of my worries.

Not to mention that when you leave your car in someone's "care" certain parts misteriously dissapear?

Ex
 
Exotexs said:
Not to mention that when you leave your car in someone's "care" certain parts misteriously dissapear?

Despite the undeniable evidence of the mechanic's greasy hand print on the glove box door, the service center manager flatly denied anyone in the shop had anything to do with the missing item or the missing spare tire.

That dealership didn't last long.
 
Well, car ran on the rallye flawlessly.


Decided to wring it out in the whoop-de-doos and corkscrews at 60+.

Even in the rain, ran true.
 
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