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MK IV Sprite starter solenoid

rspargu2

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Hello,

I’m new to the forum. I have a 1965 Sprite. The stater solenoid failed so I got a new one from Moss. Upon testing the new solenoid. I found that my key is providing voltage to the terminal but the solenoid is not activating. I then connected the terminal directly to the positive terminal on the battery to test. Same thing, solenoid not working. I got another solenoid and I am having the same problem. It seems to me that this should be plug and play but of course almost nothing on an LBC is plug and play! Not sure if I have the wrong part but it looks exactly the same as the old one. Any suggestions/ help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
If you have gone through 2 I suspect it might be the wiring - it has been some time since I did mine but I clearly recall managing to wire it so nothing happened. :rolleyes2:

The solenoid is just a relay with a higher current capacity on one side for the starter.

1745606847229.png


So the bigger bolts take the battery - solenoid cable on one side and the solenoid - starter cable on the other. In this pic the bolt with the 'tab' (on the right) goes to the battery. Thus, with it hooked up, the first test is to see if you can bypass the solenoid to ensure the starter turns. You can do this by touching both bolts with a screwdriver or by undoing one of the cables and touching it to the other (Make sure the battery is hooked up for this - don't ask me why this is important :LOL: )

assuming the starter spins - hook the cables back up and move to the switch.

I can't remember how the ignition switch grounds. My wiring diagram seems to indicate that either the solenoid grounds through one of the black wires or the solenoid itself is physically grounded by being bolted in place. Either way the power (green - switched) comes to the main ignition switch n the steering column and when the ignition switch is turned power comes down a white wire with a red stripe to the solenoid. I don't know if you have a multimeter to test if there is power coming to the solenoid when the switch is turned - if not, I made a tester out of a 12V lightbulb holder and bulb with aligator clips attached to the ends of the wire tails. Clip one end to the white red - wire and the other end to a ground and it should light up when you turn the key.

Not sure what else except maybe to ask about the state of the battery itself and whether there is enough juice to make things go. Of course cleaning and checking connections is always worth the trouble with a Little British Cars (as is checking continuity)

good luck and keep us posted!

PS forgive me if I am telling you the obvious - I usually have to talk it out to make sense
 
Hello and thanks much for the help. So my Healey wouldn’t start and I was able to get a push so I could drive home. The first thing I checked was for voltage on the starter side of the solenoid with the key. No voltage but the solenoid was clicking. Once I had the new solenoid installed and turned the key——nothing. I put my test light on the wire from the key switch and got 12V. I then got a wire and touched the connector for the key to the battery ground + and nothing. Please note the I found the old solenoid was isolated with Butyl on the mounting bracket. I have also verified the starter is working exactly the way that you described. Battery is good. I charged it overnight just for good measure. I think I will put the old unit in to see if it is still clicking with the key switch. FYI - I isolated the new solenoid while performing my troubleshooting. You mentioned that it should be grounded. Would you suggest grounding the solenoid chassis? For all I know, it was grounded before. I presumed that it needed to be isolated.

Thanks again,

Rhett
 
The chassis needs to be grounded as you mentioned because it has only one small terminal. Anyway, I will let you know when she’s back on the road!
 

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Annnd now it is my turn - As I mentioned elsewhere, Drive it day became Push it day last Sunday.

Here is what happened

1. Got in it and it started fine - drove to my first stop took some pictures - it started fine. Went to a second spot - took some pictures - got back in the car and turned the key and .... nothing. No click, no starter turn over - silence.

2. Push started the car and got home and finally tonight got at it. First of all, still nothing.

Here is what I did.

1. Put a screwdriver over the battery cable terminals and the starter engaged.

2. Checked every fuse with a continuity tester and all good (including the inline fuse next to the fusebox.) Then double checked and everything else seems to work - headlights/ signals/ horn/ lighter/ flashers/ signals/ radio.

3. Checked the wires at the fuse box and the solenoid and tugged/ adjusted and all seem tight and nothing changed.

4. Visually checked under the dash and all seems to be in order - and even wiggled and tried. no luck.

any thoughts before I start pulling the steering column apart?

PS. I can't imagine that it is related but as I checked the plug wires the vacuum came off in my hand - it had been loose and was not connected.

thanks all!
 
Assuming in #1 you meant the terminals at the solenoid then it sure sounds like the solenoid is the cause. Check the white/red wire at the solenoid for 12 volts when the key is in the start position. If your later car has a relay between the solenoid and key then that wire may be a different color. In any case if will be a smaller wire.
 
So, what are the odds that the wire harness junction between and key and the main harness had worked its way loose? Pretty good as it turns out. Didn't know whether to laugh or cry but just glad all is sorted and went for a tear around the block to celebrate. Thanks for advice and good wishes.

(On a related note I have had an elusive tapping noise for a year - which disappeared with the plug firmly reattached - so I suspect it had been wiggling loose for a while.)
 
Prince of Darkness? Glad you got it sorted so quickly.
 
Prince of Darkness? Glad you got it sorted so quickly.
Indeed. weirdly the one side of the plug didn't have the grooves on the side for the other side to snap into - and they are original.
 
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