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Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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Need to buy a roll of solid MIG Wire so I can get started on A Post replacement this weekend. What is the consensus .024 or .030 for Wire Size.
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MIG Welder Wire Size
- Thread starter Jim_Gruber
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Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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.025
OP
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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Thanks and yes I do need to look at what size tip is in there. For sheet metal on Bugsy I'll go for .024. I found a little baggie with this welder with 2 unidentifed brass piece parts. I'll bet that is what is in that baggie. Of the joys of a new untried tool that I get to learn about this weekend. A case of RTFM on my part to be sure.
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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YES read the manual! You may also need to change the wire feed mechanism setup for the thickness wire you are using.
Remember... Practice on scrap first. And know what a good weld looks and sounds like.
Remember... Practice on scrap first. And know what a good weld looks and sounds like.
tosoutherncars
Jedi Knight
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Hi Jim,
Absolutely, the thinner the better for sheet metal work. You mention 'solid', I take it that means you're using a wire & gas setup? Good, much better than flux core wire.
If you're interested, lots of welding fun in the VW link in my signature! Same thing, 110 wire & gas setup, LOTS of sheetmetal!
Absolutely, the thinner the better for sheet metal work. You mention 'solid', I take it that means you're using a wire & gas setup? Good, much better than flux core wire.
If you're interested, lots of welding fun in the VW link in my signature! Same thing, 110 wire & gas setup, LOTS of sheetmetal!
OP
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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Thanks Duncan,
Hey what was that black stuff you put on the fender seam under where the MC is. Some sort of Seam Sealer?
Discovered that the new DS A Pillar, ordered via MOSS but BMH part was what I got, does not include bracket for brace where door check strap goes. Looks like N/A in the MOSS Book. I used a spot weld cutter getting it all out and pretty much hacked it up. Now to straighten it back out, weld on a little more metal, and reattach right back to where I cut it out in the first place. Panel where door check strap was all bent out of shape.
Now that I rebent the inner panel and pounded it straight will be interesting fitting that piece in there. Got to get the jack out, inner panel is sagging a little bit, Need to see if I can straighten out before A Post reinstall
Hey what was that black stuff you put on the fender seam under where the MC is. Some sort of Seam Sealer?
Discovered that the new DS A Pillar, ordered via MOSS but BMH part was what I got, does not include bracket for brace where door check strap goes. Looks like N/A in the MOSS Book. I used a spot weld cutter getting it all out and pretty much hacked it up. Now to straighten it back out, weld on a little more metal, and reattach right back to where I cut it out in the first place. Panel where door check strap was all bent out of shape.
Now that I rebent the inner panel and pounded it straight will be interesting fitting that piece in there. Got to get the jack out, inner panel is sagging a little bit, Need to see if I can straighten out before A Post reinstall
mccalebr
Jedi Knight
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Jim_Gruber said:
Jim,
If you are talking about the little triangular gusset, I ran into this on my Spridget Project back in October. I waited several weeks for a replacement "A post" with the gusset, but ran out of time. I made one and had it welded in in about half an hour. If you have the sheet stock you can use a vise or better yet a pair of seam clamps (see photo) as a hand brake to bend the piece.
There are photos of how I made and installed mine at https://www.raysmg.com , click on the "Spridget Project" link, then "Bodywork", then "Bodywork (Sep-Nov)", then look about half way down the "October 2007" gallery.
Ray
OP
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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Ray,
That looks fabulous. I was able to pull the gusset off by drilling out a bunch of welds and banged everything straight. However this one is rather the worse for wear as it is cracked down both ears and I just may need to remake this out of some sheet stock like you did. It really is a simple few bends. I'll see if I can get things to line up and perhaps weld an extra tang on it where the front attaches to the door. That piece is really buggered up. Thanks for the help.
That looks fabulous. I was able to pull the gusset off by drilling out a bunch of welds and banged everything straight. However this one is rather the worse for wear as it is cracked down both ears and I just may need to remake this out of some sheet stock like you did. It really is a simple few bends. I'll see if I can get things to line up and perhaps weld an extra tang on it where the front attaches to the door. That piece is really buggered up. Thanks for the help.
tosoutherncars
Jedi Knight
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Jim_Gruber said:
Yes, Eastwood (www.eastwoodco.com) seam sealer, in a quart can. Stays flexible pretty much forever, can be worked with a stiff brush into a pretty good semblance of factory seam sealant...
OP
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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Ray
Great job on the gusset pics. After seeing it laid out I think I'll just make one up. A couple of pieces of heavy angle iron in the vice make for a pretty good metal brake as well. Picked up a piece of stock this morning. May get that done this PM. Looks like you welded in the gusset prior to mounting the A-Post. Definitely looks lie the way to go while I've got a small assembly to work with. Once on the car getting the welder tip in there may be a bit of a problem.
I sent you a PM and some PICS for some advice on the upper hinge and further cutting of the A-Post.
Great job on the gusset pics. After seeing it laid out I think I'll just make one up. A couple of pieces of heavy angle iron in the vice make for a pretty good metal brake as well. Picked up a piece of stock this morning. May get that done this PM. Looks like you welded in the gusset prior to mounting the A-Post. Definitely looks lie the way to go while I've got a small assembly to work with. Once on the car getting the welder tip in there may be a bit of a problem.
I sent you a PM and some PICS for some advice on the upper hinge and further cutting of the A-Post.
mccalebr
Jedi Knight
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Right, Jim, I did it at the bench.
Suggestion...I took a manilla folder and drew out the gusset shape including the tabs. I put dotted lines where the folds should go and then folded accordingly. The card stock is thick enough to hold it's shape and you can even test the fit. Then flatten out the card on the sheet metal and trace. Transfer the the dotted lines and you're ready to cut and fold for real, knowing that it will work nicely when done.
Ray
Suggestion...I took a manilla folder and drew out the gusset shape including the tabs. I put dotted lines where the folds should go and then folded accordingly. The card stock is thick enough to hold it's shape and you can even test the fit. Then flatten out the card on the sheet metal and trace. Transfer the the dotted lines and you're ready to cut and fold for real, knowing that it will work nicely when done.
Ray
tosoutherncars
Jedi Knight
Offline
mccalebr said:
x2... I would suggest cereal boxes. My favorite...
I got a mig today.If you live in the cold north they are on sale at Canadian Tire this week, 100 off the Lincoln 140(gas kit included), paid 499.00 reg 599.00 I did some research on the unit and looked at a few welding sites, seems like a good welder for the hobby guy. Just need a bottle of gas and some scrap steel to start my mig training,last time I welded was 25 years ago, I think it was grade 11 high school, should be fun.
Phil
Phil
tosoutherncars
Jedi Knight
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Have fun! If I was still living in Campbellville, I'd come over & help! (translation - drink your beer.)
My best piece of advice... get a self-darkening helmet. Everything else being equal, it'll make a huge difference in the quality of your welds. When you can see, use both hands, etc., everything is easier. Even a cheapie Princess Auto version (like mine) is better than a manual mask.
My best piece of advice... get a self-darkening helmet. Everything else being equal, it'll make a huge difference in the quality of your welds. When you can see, use both hands, etc., everything is easier. Even a cheapie Princess Auto version (like mine) is better than a manual mask.
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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I agree that a self darkening helmet would be good for a beginner. I have one and it helps me, but (ironically) 90% of the time I still flip my helmet out of habit. Sometimes I even catch myself nodding even though the hood is already down.
OP
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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Just bouht one at Horrible Freight for $49.00. HAve not tried it out yet. We'll see howe well it works.
Last day off, I think I better go to princess auto parts, I was just looking at their new catalogue.Would like a welding cart and some gloves. Great store. Campbellville, to bad would love the help,drive through there every week, going to be in YOW Tuesday night but only for 12 hours.
Thanks Phil
Thanks Phil