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regularman

regularman

Yoda
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I got a switch out of my junker 76 and modified it tow work in my 1971 and hopefully end the ignition switch issues. I got the steering column out and then had to remove the radiator (what a pain and the radiator cowling and then get to the steering rack. I managed to work some heat shrink around the rack so that it will be inside the clamps and around the rack and take up the slack that was allowing it to move side to side about 3/23 of an inch or so and cause play in the steering. Decided not to pull the head yet, I will do that at another time. I want to get it back drivable, as I fear keeping it off the road too long.
 
I hope it works. I certainly understand not wanting to keep her off the road for too long. We've still got some decent driving days left to enjoy here in the South.
 
Kim,

I used a piece of bicycle inner tube glued to both sides of the clamps to take up the slack in there. I also replaced the rack bolts and there must be an exact size bolt needed or it bottoms out in the hole. Close enough doesn't cut it here. It has to be an exact replacement. Inner tubes worked great and it's been 8-9 years since I did that fix and not an issue since.
 
Jim_Gruber said:
Kim,

I used a piece of bicycle inner tube glued to both sides of the clamps to take up the slack in there. I also replaced the rack bolts and there must be an exact size bolt needed or it bottoms out in the hole. Close enough doesn't cut it here. It has to be an exact replacement. Inner tubes worked great and it's been 8-9 years since I did that fix and not an issue since.
Click to expand...
I was looking for an old inner tube or a rim strip from one of my motorcycle wire wheels but I could not find anything, then I hit upon the idea of the heat shrink tubing so that should take up a few thousandths in there and stop the moving around.
 
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