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MGB MGB Distributor

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tony barnhill

tony barnhill

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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So, I'm finishing up the rebuild on my '67 GT's distributor...just installed the new vacuum unit....Bentley says "set the micro-adjuster to the mid-way position." How th' heck do you do that?
 
Wind it in to bottom, put a "tick" onna wheel with a felt-tip marker then count the revolutions to the outer end (put the wire 'clip' back on it!) and go half way in again?

....just a WAG. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
Well, that wasn't all that hard - 7 complete turns end-to-end...so, 3-1/2!
 
Add "Maths Wizard" to your accolades. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif

IIRC a full turn is only, like, a fifth of a degree or some such ridiculously small increment akin.
 
Man, now the darned thing won't fire! Back to static timing & then timing light! What a pain on a '67 with timing mark underneath the car!
 
With a good "lyin' down board" it ain't so bad. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
Piece of cardboard works just fine.
 
I always thought the cardboard was for oil leaks.
 
Doubles as a "lyin' down board". /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Got a good "lyin' down board"....its just the getting up & down that's becoming harder!
 
Ha Tony, join the club.

Cardboard allows you to get a bit more space between you and the work area. Creeper raises you up another few inchs. Sometimes it makes a difference in the middle of a job or allows something that does not require jacking.

Excellent at the race track as well.
 
I thought that's what a mirror was for, Tony. Find the proper angle and you can time the car standing up.
 
GOTTA SHINE THAT LIGHT ON THE TIMING MARK, GET UP OFF FLOOR, MOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR, GET BACK DOWN ON FLOOR TO SHINE THE TIMING LIGHT, GET UP, MOVE DISTRIBUTOR, GET BACK DOWN.....

(do I sound mad?)
 
mehheh... I do it static so I can AVOID all the up-n-down. On my own B I put another pointer and damper marks so "I can do it standin' up." /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
I just had to do this the other day on my 67 GT. When I build a early MGB or Spridget motor I alway change it to top timing marks if the the customer wants me to. All A-series Midgets are the same way as well.
 
<u>UPDATE:</u> So, my '67 is back on the road!! The problem wasn't timing or the rebuild I did on the distributor....it was one of the wires to the coil....once I replaced it, VROOOOMMM! The wire had a little "age nick" in it that was causing problems as the wire bent.

Plus, today we also got my '74-1/2 GT running with its new gas tank, fuel pump, & rebuilt carbs....& got the front brakes/calipers rebuilt w/new bearings - gonna tackle the rear brakes tomorrow....it'll be back on the road by the weekend!!

2 GT's down, 1 to go...yep, the white one next!!
 
Well! Aren't WE just the li'l busy bee! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Well! Aren't WE just the li'l busy bee![/QUOTE]

Plus packaged 2 orders that FEDEX picked up & took 3 boxes to UPS....I'm beat!

...& rebuilding calipers without splitting them is not a fun thing to do!
 
tony barnhill said:
...& rebuilding calipers without splitting them is not a fun thing to do!
Click to expand...

So.. split them /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif

Seriously, for the price of a pair of new bolts and a fluid channel seal, it is so much easier. I know the manual says not the split them, but I really don't understand the claim behind that.

Aside: I purchase almost all of my hardware from the local Caterpillar dealer. For some reason, the counter guy finds it amusing that I use grade 8 bolts (stamped with CAT) on my MG. CAT makes their own hardware and it is very high quality.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Seriously, for the price of a pair of new bolts and a fluid channel seal, it is so much easier. I know the manual says not the split them, but I really don't understand the claim behind that. [/QUOTE]

I was using parts off the shelf & my rebuid kits didn't have the little fluid channel seals in them...& I didn't have any in stock...so, no splittee.
 
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