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MGB MGB brakes

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GBT

GBT

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Hi to all...time to do the brakes as they have started to pull to the left when applied. I know the problem lies in the front brakes as using just the handbrake does not pull either direction. Probably a caliper is not doing its job. I do have the Bentley shop manual to refer to but any hints or suggestions or words to the wise would be appreciated....thanks in advance
 
I did basic pads/hoses/fluids this year, wasn't too hard at all. I would start with replacing the three soft hoses (one to each front, one to the back axle housing) and the pads and shoes. You may have a collapsed hose somewhere. A very straight forward job.

I used the standard rubber hoses from Moss. Some folks have reported some issues with the metal braided lines that Moss sells, so I stuck with the normal hoses. They went on fine and easy. Make sure you order new copper washers, as they are not included with the hoses.

If you're still having issues once you replace the soft lines, you may need to have the calipers rebuilt. I had PeterC at World Wide Imports do the ones on my old Bugeye and was very happy with the results. There are other folks out there as well who can do that.
 
:iagree:

Hoses are an easy, inexpensive fix, and often the "usual suspects" in this case.
 
Thanks Drew....did you go with the semi-metallic or the ceramic pads?
 
The hoses would be "first order of business", GBT. We've seen many of 'em deteriorate from the inside out. If that and a new set of pads doesn't relieve the tug left, then you KNOW it's a caliper issue. :wink:

Seal kits are relatively inexpensive, ISTR you have a good mechanical background so going into the calipers is likely not a big challenge for ya.

The pistons in 'em are sometimes corroded from being sat in one position too long, getting pads and just pushing the pistons in may gain you time if you're not too anxious to go thru the calipers just yet.
 
GBT said:
Thanks Drew....did you go with the semi-metallic or the ceramic pads?
Click to expand...
I used the EBC Greenstuff pads from Moss. Standard hoses and washers (front: 180-895, rear 180-835).

Don't know what year MGB you have. Mine uses the single circuit system like the older cars (since it's a UK home market car, didn't have the dual circuit). Make sure you get what's year-appropriate for your car.
 
If you do need to rebuld the calipers, split them! Bentley says don't but it makes it soooo much easier. The rebuild kit from Moss does not include the o-ring though. You will need to order it seperately.
 
Lots of good advice above:

Changing old hydraulic hoses is probably the number one thing. I had one that was internally collapsed and acted as a one-way valve. No front brake on that side.

By the way, I swapped a stuck caliper for a rebuilt unit I got from the local chain auto-parts store (I didn't have time to play with rebuilding one). It was easy and pretty cheap.

If you think you have a bad front brake, jack up both front wheels (using all appropriate safety stands, etc). Have a helper very lightly press on the brake pedal. Then see if both wheels are dragging (try to turn them by hand). Have the helper increase the pedal pressure a little at a time. Both sides should feel similar.
And after the pedal is released, see if one side is "dragging".

To answer your question about the ceramic versus semi-metallic pads: I'd use the ordinary semi-metallic pads.
I had the ceramic pads in my race car and I couldn't get them hot enough, even when racing.
The Green Stuff pads that Drew suggested are good too (I've used them), but I think it's recommended that you add new rotors when you use them.
With the ordinary semi-metallic street pads, you can get away with used rotors a little easier. I have a set of the ordinary Moss semi-metallic street pads in my race car right now and they work fine.
 
RE: Brakepads, use the regular semi-metallics. Street driving (even 'spirited', as in autocross) won't put much strain on 'em. Have a look at the rotors and swept area and compare with most import sedans of contemporary makers... MGB brakes are HUGE by comparison. Read: understressed.
 
Thanks to all for your comments and tips....ordered the parts tonight, hopefully Moss comes thru in a timely manner.
 
JPSmit said:
If you do need to rebuld the calipers, split them! Bentley says don't but it makes it soooo much easier. The rebuild kit from Moss does not include the o-ring though. You will need to order it seperately.
Click to expand...

I agree with JP on splitting the calipers. That's how I do it and it makes life a little easier. Make sure you get a couple of the caliper fluid channel O rings, as JP stated, their not in the kit! Moss part #180-285. PJ
 
Hi, I rebuilt my calipers and split them. It is recomended to use new bolts and the torque should be right-on the proper torque. If you are going to rebuild them, make sure that the area is very clean, clean hands and clean tools. I think that I had to but my bolts from another supplier, not Moss.
 
O.R. protocol is the paradigm.
 
hi again....got the brakes done, pads, shoes, hardware and hoses. they stop straight and firm. now I am working on the clutch hydraulic line, it failed...was unable to shift. got a new CMC and SC and hose kit...should be done soon, I hope. the steel line fitting was rusted into the rubber hose so I am off to the local parts store to locate a replacement.
 
Good update! :thumbsup:

This is why we stay here. Keep posting your progress! Others need to have access to what YOU find. :wink:
 
hi to all...latest development is that the (4)local parts suppliers in my area do not have what it takes to fix the MG...the steel nut fittings on the metal tube that run from the clutch master cylinder to the rubber hose that feeds the slave cylinder are 7/16-20 and the tube is 1/4" o.d.....not a very common combination. NAPA was the most knowledgeable and spent considerable time searching for a fix for a no sale customer...thanks to them for trying. So I ordered the tube/fitting per-assembled from Victoria British. I will have to bend it to shape but thats ok, been there, done that before. Should have the part by the weekend...and hopefully on the road shortly after...
 
At least you (eventually) found the part. I don't even try the local guys anymore, unless it's for something generic like fuel line or an oil filter. Everything else I just go to the usual parts sources (Moss, VB, etc.). I know the local chaps will have some bits, but I mostly just get frustrated.
grin.gif
 
Hi to all...the B is back on the road again and has a few hundred miles on the odometer. clutch is smooth and was able to do the job without removing the starter motor. Appreciate all the comments and hints...
 
We were just north of you and a bit south of Port St Lucie for Thanksgiving day. Three hour drive for me.

Glad ya got the line issue sorted! Some of the hydraulic shops up here have that stuff on the shelf, can usually get fittings and lines kinda quick. Even metric ended flex hoses.
 
I still haven't figured out why the little "O" rings are not in the kit! What they charge for the kit, they could give you the "O"
rings. If you haven't done these before, who would know that "O" ring was even in there. They should be in the kit! PJ
 
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