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MGB MGB a glove box door

Aussie Chris

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Hi all
Yet another question from the newbie I have repainted the dash and all has come up well, when placing the glove box door into the dash
I have a gap of two mm on the sides but 7 mm at the top what I seem to notice from photos I have scene it seems to be fairly even all the way round
Any ideas how I could correct this or do I live with it ?

Regards
D48C6F69-A76D-464A-B38B-7608171F91E6.jpeg
 

DrEntropy

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Just an opinion, but now that you've painted the whole thing, I'd say live with the odd fit.
 

DrEntropy

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Thanks for the response on the glove box but what would you have done to correct the problem?

Kind Regards

Chris


Can't be quite sure just seeing the photo, but some "gentle persuasion" using wood and a press. Pushing down VERY slowly on the curve of the door (distributing load evenly across the high point), to open up the angle slightly. Like pressing on an inverted "V" shape. Constantly refitting to see if result was a tighter fit to the opening.
 
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Aussie Chris

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Do you think the using two sash clamps and timber would work. By placing the door in the dash and compressing the
frame by hand I can achieve a better gap fit. The bottom part of the dash frame seems to have some deformation in it and does not seem to be quite true I shall take photos I what I mean and show you


Thanks
Chris
 
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Aussie Chris

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I was thinking about what you said so sitting at the table looking at the dash I bolted the glove box door back into the frame
see how the inner edge of the door is flush with the frame but the outer edge stands up and out
by twisting the frame glove box end I can achieve flush fit and much better gap at the top of the door With the dash.
I noticed that the end of the dash face glove box end is not flat but slightly dished I am wondering if the car has been in an accident and repaired as on the same side the front guard gap alignment was out so I had coerce it back.
Is your dash face at both ends flat ? The minister of war and finance has given me my junk marching orders from the dining room so better move back to the shed .

Regards
Chris
5F460BC9-C8AA-4AA2-B4F0-3EF13E103A47.jpeg

D2A735FF-3672-4F26-8BB9-B32BD22CB1CB.jpeg
174739E3-E2F3-4BEA-9CD1-B9AF75DBA49D.jpeg
 

DrEntropy

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I noticed that the end of the dash face glove box end is not flat but slightly dished I am wondering if the car has been in an accident and repaired as on the same side the front guard gap alignment was out so I had coerce it back.
Is your dash face at both ends flat ? The minister of war and finance has given me my junk marching orders from the dining room so better move back to the shed .
Appears you've sussed it. The dash is normally flat all the way across. Even if you persuade the dash to comply, it may be that the front cowl is distorted and will twist the dash back into a curve. Only way to find out is to fit it.

As for the minister, you're likely better off with a strategic withdrawal. Live to mutiny another day.
 

DrEntropy

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You may also find the door needs persuasion after fitting the dash, and p'raps "cheating" the curve at the cowl with thin strips of aluminum or other material would be in order?
 
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Aussie Chris

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Yet another one the rubber block for sealing the heater is it better to have it stuck to the heater box before insertion or would sticking it to the fire wall and inserting be another option ? I have done preliminary test runs both ways neither easy what is
your experience
 

DrEntropy

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With that task, the gaskets the box sits on are glued to the body with contact adhesive ( Weldwood in our case) used for countertop laminates. The ring seal-to-bulkhead glued to the box.

The most challenging part of the whole job is re-attaching that bloody cable!
 
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