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MGA MGA and weber carbs..

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Porkchop

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So here I am looking at this hodgepodged set of SU's ....for my 59 A...and I am looking up all of the pieces parts that should be replaced to make them as good as new. Lord knows that synching a set of worn out SU's can prove impossible.So I'm saying to myself...self..for all that you will have in a rebuild ...why not swap them out for a Weber...32/36 I believe would be the appropriate replacement. I am the proud former owner of a TD, TC, B, GT ...TR3 and a mid sixties sprite...so ...never have I thought of the conversion. For those brave souls out there that have taken the plunge ....what is the end result ? Any significant problems with the webers...? do I have the correct replacement model? ...any adverse performance issues...Lemme know...what you know...Larry...aka Porkchop..
 
it has not been long but i put a side draft on my 78. i have not had to mess with it at all, and i can hold a higher speed going up big hills. noticeably more power ( not a sick amount but i could feel a bit.) and better mpg. it was an easy bolt on piece.
 
Not sure there's enough clearance in the MGA for it but a 40 DCOE would be a better choice than the Fiat/Ford/Holley DGV Weber, IMO.

Truthfully, rebuilding the SUs would be my first choice on an A.
 
Larry,

Dr. Entropy has the chops, er, knowledge and I would do the same. Rebuild the SU's. You will keep the originality. My MGA is in pieces and I cannot offer an opinion on space, but you cannot go wrong with a man from Denmark.

Cheers.
 
I also like the SU carbs. If you are not worried about being original i would get a set of 63-67 MGB carbs and intake and heat shield. They have a better choke setup and no cork seals. If you are not ready to build the carbs yourself there are several people around that can handle it for you. Check the choke linkage for excess wear on the MGA set also! bob
 
Using the Weber devalues the car and gives you less power than the original - a lose, lose situation. Plus they always look like a wart on a beauty queen.

If you aren't up to rebuilding a set of SUs (or paying to have them rebuilt) you should frankly reassess whether you have what it takes to see the project through. Selling to someone that does might be kinder to the car.....

Having the carbs bushed or reamed to suit oversize throttle shafts can be farmed out and if fitting a new seal kit is too challenging and you have to have it done, there are several good rebuilders around.

In other words, I would not even consider fitting a downdraft Weber.
 
billspohn said:
Using the Weber devalues the car and gives you less power than the original -
In other words, I would not even consider fitting a downdraft Weber.
Click to expand...
From the owner of a Jamaican, no less. :confuse: A different carburetor setup may undervalue the vehicle from one with an original setup, BUT, it is fully reversible without opening the engine, something that rebuilding with a B head and bored out block cannot.

That being said, there are brand new carbs available, but $1200 a set is extreme even on an eventual $20,000 vehicle, IMHO. Same outfit (Moss) sells set of SU carbs for $700, don't know the difference. A downdraft weber and manifold will run a little more than that, but less than $800. And to think I almost bought a setup for my B when they were $450 and I thought that was high.

I do agree that properly rebuilt SUs can be balanced and set up by anyone experienced with Mikuni multi-carb setups on motorcycles. I've got 4 across on my Z1 900. There are really only a couple extra steps with SUs, one being major issue that people have with cars that sit - keeping the dashpot oil at proper level.
 
Ok ..Ok... the purist in me surfaces ....SU parts are all on order... thanks for all the support ...now if I could just get my backordered valve guides....I could make some progress...Porkchop
 
"Stay th' course" lad.


Good choice, BTW. :wink:
 
shall do ...Ok ...so I just left the garage when I was cleaning up the ol' felt ring timing cover ...I would like to replace with the rubber seal version.(not that I mind a little oil on the floor, but hey ...I am this far into it) ..Can't find one to save my A....however there are some B covers ...Moss doesn't have them ...but they have the same # 455-380...for the B and the A....I have GB 23866 as an engine se # ...Ya thinkitllwork?? Larry
 
Any timing cover with the pointer at the bottom will work. The later MGB timing cover (72-74?)will also work but you will need to remark your crank pulley. The latest issue rubber bumper ones may have the marks further away since the front pulley is larger. Bob
 
I really like Webbies...

Except...Think of the MGA head as a giant restrictor plate.

The weakest link on a stock engine is not the SU's

Your $ would be better spent doing a proper tune up.
 
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