T-Series MG TD Issues

[TIDY TD]

After restoration of my TD I am puzzled by the gap (as pictured) between the bottom of the hood and the fender. Any thoughts as to how to rectify this?

 

[Jim B.]

I have seen this mentioned several times elsewhere.
It is common and does vary from car to car.
If the rubber seal between the hood (bonnet) and the scuttle is not down this can increase the gap just a bit.
The rubber sold by Moss has been deemed by many, not to be correct. They feel the shape of the bulp should be more of a right angle than a beak.
They feel the The Rubber from B&G is more correct.
I have been able to work with Moss rubber OK by locating the nails close to the bulb and getting the bulb down and close to the edge of the scuttle step.

Attached are three pictures.
One of my gap and two of the Moss rubber as I have installed it.

 

[PAUL161]

Even though it will make little difference in this situation, the Moss cowl rubber is thicker and uses a different profile than the original, which is sold by Brown & Gammons in the UK. The original is easier to lay on the wood as it's profile lends it's self to a perfect fit. Here's the difference. PJ

I forgot to mention that the B&G rubber has the original profile where the rubber edge facing the engine compartment has a slight taper in it.

 

[TIDY TD]

Thanks for the response, Paul. I've looked at that and you're right, not much difference -if any. I did install all new wood and rubber and followed numerous recommendations about re-assembly, but still the gap.
Anyway, thanks again and if you have any ideas in the future I'd be happy to hear them.

 

[Brinkerhoff]

As long as the seam in the tub lines up with the split between the two bonnet panels , you're ok. That gap was engineered in to the car , it was never intended to be a tight fit.

 

[Sarastro]

These cars were not made like today's: they required a lot of fitting and tweaking as they were assembled. My TD did much the same thing as yours, but worse. I had trouble making the hook on hood latches line up with the square hole in the mating piece. I solved it just by loosening bolts, moving things around as much as possible, and similar fiddling. At the time, I wasn't aware of the cowl-rubber issues. I do agree that it's not expected to be a tight fit, but it still must fit well enough for the latches to work.

 

[pdplot]

The British word is fettling. It's what you have to do when restoring a T-series MG. Nothing fits. I spent countless hours filing and sanding new woodwork before it could be attached to the sheet metal. And watch out for those hood latches. They can snap open and give you a bruise that will last for weeks.